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Routes in Sphinx Rock
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Black Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cheops S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Crunch, The T,TR V0- 4- |
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Exit Stage Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Joint Venture T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Lickety Split S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Locksmith aka Dihedral Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Return to Forever T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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So Honed Yet So Stoned S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sphinx Crack T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Talus Food Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thinner T A3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | FFA: Steve Hong, April 1981. 1st ascent in 1 pitch: Tony Yaniro |
| Page Views: | 20,825 total · 76/month |
| Shared By: | Walt Wehner on Sep 8, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 
Per T Dz: I talked to the owner of the saloon who knows the property owner. Apparently, his deceased wife is buried at the base of Sphinx. Best to let her rest if so.
Description
Barring, I dunno, the Phoenix or Supercrack or something, this is probably the best-known crack climb in the U.S., one of the most famous in the world. That said, it consistently spits me off every couple of moves - on TR. The crack would be 5.10 if it was A) less steep, B) less slanted to the left, or C) less slippery. The jams are actually not bad, but feet are god-awful, and the angle of the crack makes every right hand jam awkward and tenuous. People have been known to lieback sections. It is easy to set a TR on, so go throw yourself at one of the nation's hardest crack lines! If you have an experience like mine, you'll come away with MAD respect for guys like Suzuki, Hong, and Takeda who have set the standard for free ascents in good style.
Addendum: This crack was, as oral word goes, created by a engineering challenge to create a perfect split in the rock using blasting devices. If true, they succeeded.
Addendum: This crack was, as oral word goes, created by a engineering challenge to create a perfect split in the rock using blasting devices. If true, they succeeded.
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