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Center Route
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 263
votes
Routes in Rincon - Center Route & R
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Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bulging Codpiece (submitted as On the Crest) T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Camouflage S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Center Route T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Concentric T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Wave T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counterstroke T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Five-Eight Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Five-Ten Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Front Side Lip Smack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Green Room, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Killing Fields, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Mind Over Matter T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mind Your Bulging Codpiece T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Neato T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Outer Limbits T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Point Break T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Reveley-Hunter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Rincon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rincon Dink T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Rincon Light T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rinodina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Spicoli S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Warp Riders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: |
Trad, 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(2) |
| FA: | Larry and Roger Dalke, 1965. FFA: Chris Reveley, Scott Woodruff |
| Page Views: | 17,835 total · 64/month |
| Shared By: | David Benson on May 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Note: I've only climbed the first pitch to the bolted anchors.
Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above.
Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot in the pod before you pull out of the roof.
The crux is getting situated after pulling out of the roof. Placing gear here is slightly awkward, but small/med nuts are available.
Step right over the roof and continue up the shallow right facing dihedral. 10-12 feet of excellent climbing (mid 10) before the difficulties ease somewhat. Two or three fixed pins of marginal quality (and generally good gear is nearby) are in the upper part of this dihedral before the broken band. Traverse left about 8' to a two bolt anchor.
From the 1st anchor you can either top rope Evictor (12c/d), rappel or continue.
Per Bryson Slothower:
Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap and go in August for the best raspberries.
Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.
Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above.
Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is possible to place a #2 Camalot in the pod before you pull out of the roof.
The crux is getting situated after pulling out of the roof. Placing gear here is slightly awkward, but small/med nuts are available.
Step right over the roof and continue up the shallow right facing dihedral. 10-12 feet of excellent climbing (mid 10) before the difficulties ease somewhat. Two or three fixed pins of marginal quality (and generally good gear is nearby) are in the upper part of this dihedral before the broken band. Traverse left about 8' to a two bolt anchor.
From the 1st anchor you can either top rope Evictor (12c/d), rappel or continue.
Per Bryson Slothower:
Pitch 2 starts with a tricky 10b move over a bulge above the belay and continues up a right-facing dihedral with raspberry bushes for a 100 feet to a comfortable belay ledge. Protect early on this pitch to avoid landing in your belayers lap and go in August for the best raspberries.
Pitch 3 cuts left on jugs up and around the corner to a slab (8+). Continue up the slab passing a band of loose rotten rock (5.8S) and belay on the large walk off ledge. Walk off to the left past the finish of Over The Hill.
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