Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 7 pitches Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Layton Kor and Gerry Roach, 1959. FFA: Dave Rearick, Bob Culp
Page Views: 19,387 total · 69/month
Shared By: Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is probably my favorite route in Eldo. It is long, exciting, has beautiful climbing, better than The Yellow Spur, and the upper half sees little traffic.

The first pitch is the crux, a pumpy overhang that will be quite dangerous if you are not solid on it. Climb up fifteen feet to the lip, clip a good drilled angle, and crank onto lower angle rock. If you feel iffy on this section before beginning, you could probably stick clip the pin. The 5.8 above is pretty runout.

Take Jules Verne as the second pitch, a 5.8+ crack. The original second pitch of T2 sucks as it is covered in bird crap.

The pitch above the upper ramp is one of the most beautiful 5.9 pitches in Eldo, and not done too often.

The last pitch is short, .9- but definitely dangerous. It consists of overhanging talus protected by bad pins, of course if you can do the first pitch, this pitch won't be a problem.

To get off, scramble a long ledge to join up with the last pitch of Ruper.

Getting There Suggest change

Find the start to the route by approaching the Roof Routes area. You park at the lower parking lot, hike the trail around the West side of The Whale's Tail. Follow the trail across the concrete pad, take the switchbacks, take the right fork. When you get to the rock, you head left what feels like about 100 feet. The start is identified by finding an angling roof about 20 feet off the ground with a jug & pin just past the lip.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack.

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