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Routes in Wigwam Dome
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Supremo T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Hill's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Slipper T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Little Bo Peep Diploma T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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On The Edge T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pow Wow Canal T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Ramblin' Rose T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teepee Tower Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trout-Baker Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Violent Energy T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Warpath T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wunsch's Simulator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Oliver Hill, Doug Wermer, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 3,998 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Hill on Apr 14, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Hill's route starts on the left side of the dome and follows the enormous dihedral for a few pitches.
Pitch 1 starts with a left-leaning crack up to easy ground and an interesting perch in 100'. Continue for another 40' with harder climbing in a hand crack to stemming and nice belay ledge with fixed gear.
Pitch 2 is the crux of the route. Start in a wide crack/chimney and find some tricky pro as the rock gets steeper. Try to hold to your big stuff for higher up. The crux is an offwidth section with a bush or two in it. As the angle kicks back, move onto the face and stretch your 60m rope getting to a nice belay ledge.
From here, you can either climb the crack to the left to a set of chains and rap off the side (awesome looking toprope, too) or continue to the top of the dome. If you continue up, a nice ledge traversing right is reached in two easy pitches. Move out on the ledge and belay below a fist crack where the ledge ends. The final pitch goes through a roof and up to one last steep corner where those big pieces will come in handy again. Keep an eye out for a pocket with some 3 inch, smoky quartz crystals in it! Overall, this is a pretty good route with lots of pitches.
Descent: Walk off to the west and down climb to a tree with a sling for a short rap.
Pitch 1 starts with a left-leaning crack up to easy ground and an interesting perch in 100'. Continue for another 40' with harder climbing in a hand crack to stemming and nice belay ledge with fixed gear.
Pitch 2 is the crux of the route. Start in a wide crack/chimney and find some tricky pro as the rock gets steeper. Try to hold to your big stuff for higher up. The crux is an offwidth section with a bush or two in it. As the angle kicks back, move onto the face and stretch your 60m rope getting to a nice belay ledge.
From here, you can either climb the crack to the left to a set of chains and rap off the side (awesome looking toprope, too) or continue to the top of the dome. If you continue up, a nice ledge traversing right is reached in two easy pitches. Move out on the ledge and belay below a fist crack where the ledge ends. The final pitch goes through a roof and up to one last steep corner where those big pieces will come in handy again. Keep an eye out for a pocket with some 3 inch, smoky quartz crystals in it! Overall, this is a pretty good route with lots of pitches.
Descent: Walk off to the west and down climb to a tree with a sling for a short rap.
Photos
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