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Bumblies For Breakfast
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 66
votes
Routes in The Red Slab
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1976 Crack/chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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And Now for Something Completely Different T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Back Scratcher T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bumblies For Breakfast S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Diamondback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fun 'n' Games T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Jenga S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lounge Lizard S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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MK '74 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Pink Slip S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rattle and Scream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rubics S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slip and Slide S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slip It In S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Snakes For Snacks S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spring Fever T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trundelero S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vapor Trail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wicked Game S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Alan Nelson, Annette Bunge, Ken Trout |
| Page Views: | 3,320 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Alan Nelson on Aug 22, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This is a great, continuous, 80' pitch that is not for the meek. It originally had five bolts (you do the math for the runouts), but an additional bolt at the bottom was added in the summer of 2001 to reduce the groundfall potential. This route was established in the old-school style: on-sight, from the ground, with the protection drilled from free stances. As such, it is too run-out for your typical sportclimb, but it's got big bolts that were drilled with a Hilti.
Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.
Even though it's steep, it's a highly featured less-than-vertical slab, so falling is discouraged. With that in mind, it's got lots of holds and occasional rests. If you're comfortable on 5.10 sport routes, you'll probably enjoy this, but if you're just breaking into the grade get someone else to string it up and run it on a toprope.
Protection
Six bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.
As of 6/16, per Lisa Montgomery: the 6 lead & 2 anchor bolts were updated with 1/2 inch stainless 5-piece Powers bolts.
As of 6/16, per Lisa Montgomery: the 6 lead & 2 anchor bolts were updated with 1/2 inch stainless 5-piece Powers bolts.
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