Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 10,055 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This was my brother's and my first introduction to offwidth climbing.
The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.
The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 traverse on this pitch is the same as the 5.8 traverse on the third pitch of Orange Julius, although it is better protected due to the crack below it. Squeeze up an easy chimney and jam a 5.7 crack to a belay alcove (same belay as on Orange Julius).
From here, you can see a 100 foot vertical offwidth to the right; this is the third pitch. Downclimb (easier than you think) to the base of the offwidth, clip a large pin and start climbing. The offwidth starts out in the #2 to #3 Camalot range. The first 40 feet look hard but are only 5.8 due a good crack in the side of the offwidth that can be used as a layback. Get to a stance where you can place some TCUs. Above this, the crack widens to #5 Camalot size. 30 feet above this stance is the crux. Slide the #5 up as you go, the crux ends when a good crack can be found on the right that you can place pro in. Here the crack stays wide, but is lower angle and easy to the top, it also has good small-cam protection on the side. This is a good offwidth primer.
The first pitch begins right of Orange Julius with a 5.8 hand and fist crack in a dihedral in a chimney. Bring several #3 and #2 Camalots for this section and the crux. Belay 50 feet up when the 5.8 section ends.
The second pitch climbs a wide flared 5.7 crack that peters out on 5.9 terrain into a face. Reach a good hold on the face, and traverse right on slightly runout 5.8 face climbing. The 5.8 traverse on this pitch is the same as the 5.8 traverse on the third pitch of Orange Julius, although it is better protected due to the crack below it. Squeeze up an easy chimney and jam a 5.7 crack to a belay alcove (same belay as on Orange Julius).
From here, you can see a 100 foot vertical offwidth to the right; this is the third pitch. Downclimb (easier than you think) to the base of the offwidth, clip a large pin and start climbing. The offwidth starts out in the #2 to #3 Camalot range. The first 40 feet look hard but are only 5.8 due a good crack in the side of the offwidth that can be used as a layback. Get to a stance where you can place some TCUs. Above this, the crack widens to #5 Camalot size. 30 feet above this stance is the crux. Slide the #5 up as you go, the crux ends when a good crack can be found on the right that you can place pro in. Here the crack stays wide, but is lower angle and easy to the top, it also has good small-cam protection on the side. This is a good offwidth primer.
Protection
Rossiter's guidebook says bring a couple of #3 and #4 cams for this route. I have to wonder if Rossiter has ever done this route. The crux absolutely requires a #5 Camalot; #4s will not fit.
Per Matt Piscopo: for ample protection, bring a double rack to #3, one #4, and one #6. A #5 can be placed in the beginning of the "offwidth," but a solid 0.5 can be placed 4 feet below the #5 placement in a horizontal. A #6 can be pushed up for 20' from secure stances to where additional small gear can be found.
Comments below mention that a #5 is absolutely necessary for the crux. This was true at one time, when BD #5s were larger and almost the size as the modern #6.
Per Matt Piscopo: for ample protection, bring a double rack to #3, one #4, and one #6. A #5 can be placed in the beginning of the "offwidth," but a solid 0.5 can be placed 4 feet below the #5 placement in a horizontal. A #6 can be pushed up for 20' from secure stances to where additional small gear can be found.
Comments below mention that a #5 is absolutely necessary for the crux. This was true at one time, when BD #5s were larger and almost the size as the modern #6.
26 Comments