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Routes in West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
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Aftershock TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a X |
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Atom Smasher S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Baby Sitter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Break on Through T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Break On Through to Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chianti T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clear-a-Sill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cruisin' for Burgers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ein Kluck T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Ghetto Blaster T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Gibbet, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Incarnation S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Knife, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Long John Direct (Original Aid Start) T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Long John Wall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Next to Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Next to Nearly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pluto T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quick Silver T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Rictus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Rock For Climbing Routes To T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Shock Of the New T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X |
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Strawberry Shortcut T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunshine Wall T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thin Ice T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Think Quickly T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Unlead, The T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X |
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Unsaid, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Uranus T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Washington Irving T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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White Rabbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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| Type: | TR, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown, likely only on TR |
| Page Views: | 1,596 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 3, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is a variation of the route "Shock of the New" which climbs the obvious arete just to the right side of the famous route "The Unsaid." This is located in the "Unsaid Area" of the West Ridge of Eldorado Canyon. The new route goes "super direct" up the arete, not deviating from the obvious prow. The bottom is clean, but the upper part still has some fine lichen on it.
The original line, from which this name was derived is not quite as obvious or hard and started on the flake system to the right, eventually crossing over to the left and climbing there. To do Aftershock, climb the direct arete until the broken ledge is reached, up above Cruisin' For Burgers and The Unsaid. This is the arete about 8 feet to the climber's right, in the front page picture (attached below). The lower part of the arete is obscured by a tree in the photo. This variation climbs a little over 1/2 of its length on different rock than the original route.
The moves are good, and perhaps a little reachy. A partner of mine who had just lead several 11's and a 12, then made the comment that she could not even perceive a way to do the moves (height may be a factor). I am no giant (I'm 5'10" but have long arms) and I found the moves to be spectacular, but difficult and insecure.
If you attempt to lead this route and are not injured, you will still probably wet the bed every night for a few weeks. TR it from the gear above The Unsaid. The TR from The Unsaid anchors could produce a [violent] swing if you were to fall from the top of Aftershock, but if you executed the moves down low, I seriously doubt you will be falling up high.
Hordes of climbers may be in this vicinity, climbing the more popular lines, including: Unsaid, Cruising for Burgers, Break on Through, Strawberry Shortcut, Sunshine Wall, and Washington Irving. I have never seen another climber attempt Aftershock or Shock Of The New.
The original line, from which this name was derived is not quite as obvious or hard and started on the flake system to the right, eventually crossing over to the left and climbing there. To do Aftershock, climb the direct arete until the broken ledge is reached, up above Cruisin' For Burgers and The Unsaid. This is the arete about 8 feet to the climber's right, in the front page picture (attached below). The lower part of the arete is obscured by a tree in the photo. This variation climbs a little over 1/2 of its length on different rock than the original route.
The moves are good, and perhaps a little reachy. A partner of mine who had just lead several 11's and a 12, then made the comment that she could not even perceive a way to do the moves (height may be a factor). I am no giant (I'm 5'10" but have long arms) and I found the moves to be spectacular, but difficult and insecure.
If you attempt to lead this route and are not injured, you will still probably wet the bed every night for a few weeks. TR it from the gear above The Unsaid. The TR from The Unsaid anchors could produce a [violent] swing if you were to fall from the top of Aftershock, but if you executed the moves down low, I seriously doubt you will be falling up high.
Hordes of climbers may be in this vicinity, climbing the more popular lines, including: Unsaid, Cruising for Burgers, Break on Through, Strawberry Shortcut, Sunshine Wall, and Washington Irving. I have never seen another climber attempt Aftershock or Shock Of The New.
Protection
This route would be a serious lead for any climber. The gear is nearly nonexistent and the moves are difficult and insecure. I do not know how one could safely lead this route, but it can be toproped with only minor swing-potential. I TR'd it and I seriously recommend that anyone else do the same, although it might make a good headpoint.
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