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Independence Chimney
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1
Avg: 2.5 from 22
votes
Routes in Independence Monument
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Dependence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A3- |
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Geezer Highway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Independence Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Otto's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Sundial Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Unknown handcrack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA: Mike Dudley & Fletcher Smith, 1970. FFA: Jason Haas & Craig Weinhold, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 7,811 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Dan Mottinger on Nov 10, 2001 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This fun route includes everything from aid climbing to a full-body chimney to a face climbing finish. This route goes up the left side of Independence Monument's south side following a ramp to a distinct chimney/crack system. The south facing exposure makes the route a good choice for cool spring or fall days. Start the climb by going to the left side of the monument's south side.
P1. The climb starts by getting onto the right leaning ramp leading to the chimney system. Accomplish this by aiding up a thin crack on the face under the ramp. The crack has a fixed pin on the face to the side of it about 35' up. This is 20' to the right of a big roof with an offwidth up it. Aid up the crack using small pro until you can free climb. I started freeing at the start of the dihedral with fixed pin. Climb up past a lone fixed pin to a two drilled-angle belay above the crack. You can use these as a belay or directional, then climb up the ramp 5.5-6 to another drilled angle belay.
P2. From 2nd drilled angle belay, squeeze up an offwidth (5.8) and follow wide crack to two angle belay below chimney.
P3. THE chimney pitch - Fun, full-body chimneying is the highlight of this pitch. From the belay on the ramp, get into the tight chimney and clip the drilled pin on the face. Squeeze up the narrow chimney until it widens a little above. Continue a little higher where a 1" crack starts near the outside edge of the chimney. Use this for pro/jams and continue up. After small crack ends, go up and right following the main chimney to a two- pin belay inside chimney.
P4. This pitch continues up the chimney deep into the fissure. Easy, unprotected chimneying leads up to a large ledge above.
P5 & 6. From ledge, go East to the top of the Time Tunnel and meet up with Otto's Route. Continue to the summit via the last two pitches of Otto's Route.
Descent: via Otto's Route.
P1. The climb starts by getting onto the right leaning ramp leading to the chimney system. Accomplish this by aiding up a thin crack on the face under the ramp. The crack has a fixed pin on the face to the side of it about 35' up. This is 20' to the right of a big roof with an offwidth up it. Aid up the crack using small pro until you can free climb. I started freeing at the start of the dihedral with fixed pin. Climb up past a lone fixed pin to a two drilled-angle belay above the crack. You can use these as a belay or directional, then climb up the ramp 5.5-6 to another drilled angle belay.
P2. From 2nd drilled angle belay, squeeze up an offwidth (5.8) and follow wide crack to two angle belay below chimney.
P3. THE chimney pitch - Fun, full-body chimneying is the highlight of this pitch. From the belay on the ramp, get into the tight chimney and clip the drilled pin on the face. Squeeze up the narrow chimney until it widens a little above. Continue a little higher where a 1" crack starts near the outside edge of the chimney. Use this for pro/jams and continue up. After small crack ends, go up and right following the main chimney to a two- pin belay inside chimney.
P4. This pitch continues up the chimney deep into the fissure. Easy, unprotected chimneying leads up to a large ledge above.
P5 & 6. From ledge, go East to the top of the Time Tunnel and meet up with Otto's Route. Continue to the summit via the last two pitches of Otto's Route.
Descent: via Otto's Route.
Protection
Standard rack including stoppers, small cams (TCUs & micros), medium to large cams, 1.0-1.5 Tri-cam for Otto's Route. Include a few large pieces for OW (Camalots 4,4.5,5). I got a great Lowe Ball placement on the aid section, FWIW.
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