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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face
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Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: |
Trad, Sport
Fixed Hardware
(6) |
| FA: | FA Kyle Copeland; FFA Bob Horan, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 14,253 total · 52/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Aug 17, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
The Rainbow Wall starts on the bright yellow South face of the Wind Tower by scrambling up the third class ramp to the right of King's X. A good Friend can be placed before reaching out to clip a bolt that initiates the hand traverse. The traverse is bolt protected and largely on a rather decent edge, it's the foot work that is so tricky. A hard move on very crimpy edges leads into the traverse which is followed by several reasonable moves. A pseudo-rest arises just before the edge system turns vertical and turns very difficult and cruxy. An ancient beta-max, and origin of the term beta, was published in Rock and Ice and shows Bob Horan running through this sequence. I tried the Rainbow Wall several years ago with the beta-max at hand and on top rope and vowed to get back when I thought I had the finger strength. The hard climbing is near the end of the traverse and is indeed rather brief, however, my guess is that the Rainbow Wall will still hold its grade 17 years later and as such makes a terrific first 5.13 lead. The grade seems reasonable, the holds are largely very friendly, and the protection is as safe as you can get, at least in the traverse. After turning the corner on the left work carefully up to the ledge system below the Metamorphosis from which you can rap. With care you can get some stoppers in here. While it is not a big route, the Rainbow Wall is surely an Eldorado classic, and perhaps its turning up today will give just the impetus to get back on it.
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