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The Good, Bad, and Dirty
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
Routes in Cave Wall
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Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Good, Bad, and Dirty, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snowdens Intro T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Time Passages T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Ken Trout, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 2,630 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on May 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Historical seasonal raptor closures with 2023 updates
Details
Per Garrett Garner-Wells:
the current raptor closures, announced by CPW and reported on Denver7:
The following climbing route closures are currently in place:
- Morning Sun Wall is closed March 1-July 31.
- Porky’s Wall is closed March 1 - July 31.
- Vultures Wall is closed March 1-July 31. (per Rachel, CCSP Ranger, dnr_castlewood.canyon@state.co.use or 303-688-5242)
- Shakespearean Theater is closed March 1-May 31.
- Mind Meld is closed March 1-May 31.
As of 2020:
There is a very new and active nest of owls midway up the cliff at the north end of the Neanderthal Wall between Cro-Mag and Up The Red. There is no active nest around the south end of Neanderthal Wall.
As of June, 2017:
The 3 toprope routes at the far south end of Neanderthal Wall (far north end of Allied Wall) have a nesting pair of Snowy Owls. Please stay off these routes until further notice. The park has been notified and hopefully some signage will be put up. The route Rock Rat is included.
As of March 7, 2012:
Shakespearean Theater - restricted March, April, May.
Mind Meld - restricted March, April, May.
Porky's Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, through July 31.
Vulture Wall - restricted March, April, May.
Morning Sun Wall - restricted March, April, May, June, July.
Description
This is a classic Castlewood hand and finger crack that has seen many aid ascents. Approach via the Cave Trail, then turn left at the base of the cliff, pass under a large block leaning against the cliff and locate the obvious hand crack about 15 feet right of the "cave." This nice line has three cruxes with the last 10d crux at the very top--a memorable climb.
Start on a block to the right of the line, then move up under a small roof for the first crux. A #1 Friend can be placed below the roof in a pocket, and if you reach high, the #0 Friend (or TCU) can be fiddled into the thin crack. An old fixed pin has since pulled out (since the guidebook publishing), but the micro cam was pretty solid (technology, baby). Crank this first roof (9) using face holds up to a large ledge. An old 1/4" bolt is on the ledge for extra security. The second crux (9+) comes in moving off the ledge. The rock is undercut so no good footholds help you get established with a good jam. Anyway, jam (thin hands) to get off the ledge, then move into the meaty part of the route - a nice hand crack. Use #3 and #4 Friends through this section until you're established below the final roof. A decent armbar rest is possible while you shake out the pump from the jamming below. A good #3 Friend can be placed high in this roof to protect the final moves, which are exciting and exposed.
The anchor on top can be made in a thin crack with small-medium stoppers and a #9 hex. Downclimb via a 4th Class ledge system to the North.
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