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Routes in Sundance Buttress
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[Redacted] T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Adrenaline T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Banana Peels T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Betwixt'em T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bonzo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bushes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cajun Capers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Chain of Command T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Covert Action T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Curve Grande T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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English Opening T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eumenides T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Firebird 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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First Lady T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Grapevine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Roof Bypass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Guillotine, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hemp Necktie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hurley-Neri T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Idiot Wind T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jet Stream T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Kor's Flake T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Last Gasp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Laura Scudders T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Mainliner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mr. President T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nose, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Precipitation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Progression T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scrotum Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sidetrack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slim Pickens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turnkorner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Turnkorner Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Under the Big Top 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under The Sundress T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Upside Down Race Car Kitty T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Whiteman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | George Hurley and Walter Fricke, 1970 |
| Page Views: | 5,081 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is seasonally closed for raptor nesting. Click for details.
Details
2019 Seasonal closures are in place. Check with Backcountry Office (970-586-1242).
RMNP
6/12/15
K.Patterson 970-586-1363
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
RMNP
6/12/15
K.Patterson 970-586-1363
Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP
Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.
Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.
The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.
Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS
Description
A good, long moderate route that gets better after a grungy start. Easily identified as beginning just past a giant dihedral, that runs up the entire height of the cliff, toward the west end of Sundance Buttress.
P1- Scramble up 3rd class until your comfort level warrants a belay, Climb into the huge dihedral, and follow it past a dirty wide section, then traverse left across a slab to a belay (5.8, 160 [to 210] ft.).
P2. Climb up a ways and then head right, linking discontinuous features to belay back towards the main dihedral (5.7, 120 ft.)
P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.).
P4. Climb the right crack, then go back left up a ramp system to a belay (5.6, 120 ft.).
P5. Climb a large, left-facing corner and turn a roof on either side with 5.8 moves. Continue to a ledge (150 ft.)
P6. A short 40 feet finds the top. Carefully scramble east for a good ways to find the descent route.
P1- Scramble up 3rd class until your comfort level warrants a belay, Climb into the huge dihedral, and follow it past a dirty wide section, then traverse left across a slab to a belay (5.8, 160 [to 210] ft.).
P2. Climb up a ways and then head right, linking discontinuous features to belay back towards the main dihedral (5.7, 120 ft.)
P3. To start, aim for a shallow, right-facing dihedral, not the larger, obvious crack to the left. Work steadily up and left across an exposed vertical wall, following short cracks. [At about 100ft up, angle more strongly left. Belay at a tiny, exposed stance below a right angling crack (5.8, 150 ft.).
P4. Climb the right crack, then go back left up a ramp system to a belay (5.6, 120 ft.).
P5. Climb a large, left-facing corner and turn a roof on either side with 5.8 moves. Continue to a ledge (150 ft.)
P6. A short 40 feet finds the top. Carefully scramble east for a good ways to find the descent route.
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