Type: |
Sport, Aid, 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(21) |
FA: | [?Steve Wunsch per High Over Boulder, P. Ament & M. VanLoon 1967 TR led P Ament & R Briggs, 1967] |
Page Views: | 5,735 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Vernon on Mar 1, 2001 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is one of the more popular and better protected roof routes.
This climb starts to the [right] of Temporary Like Achilles; uphill 20 yards from Guenese. It can be identified by a heavily chalked shelf midway up and a seemingly juggy roof at the beginning. This is a great pitch, .10b over the roof, and pumpy reachy 5.11 climbing up higher on good holds. Once on top of the shelf, the crux breaks left on some sloping holds then angles back right to easier climbing that moves up and left to a two bolt belay. The upper roof can be aided to gain access to two more apparently classic 5.10 pitches, I have not done these however.
The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.
The upper pitches have some antique gear (pins & bashies) that you should treat with suspect.
This climb starts to the [right] of Temporary Like Achilles; uphill 20 yards from Guenese. It can be identified by a heavily chalked shelf midway up and a seemingly juggy roof at the beginning. This is a great pitch, .10b over the roof, and pumpy reachy 5.11 climbing up higher on good holds. Once on top of the shelf, the crux breaks left on some sloping holds then angles back right to easier climbing that moves up and left to a two bolt belay. The upper roof can be aided to gain access to two more apparently classic 5.10 pitches, I have not done these however.
The pitch above the roof is excellent, 5.10b/c. The roof is easily aidable and ends up at a big anchor. From there, the climb goes up and right, and then straight up the face to a tricky groove. It finishes up an easy slab to the belay below the Psycho Slab. This pitch is exposed and feels much more commiting than it actually is. It is mostly fixed with old pins and other old gear, and can be protected with small wires and small cams. The Psycho Slab, 5.9, leads to the Upper Ramp.
The upper pitches have some antique gear (pins & bashies) that you should treat with suspect.
Protection
There are a few bolts and less than ideal pins protecting this climb. The start is a tad on the hairy side.
Per Carl Sampurna: for P1, bring five draws for the 4 bolts and 1 pin and perhaps a cam 0.75-#2 to fill-in between bolt #2 and the pin. The start is a tad on the hairy side, so consider using a stickclip.
According to Levin's guidebook: P2 has four bolts, and P3 has four bolts and several pins.
Per Carl Sampurna: for P1, bring five draws for the 4 bolts and 1 pin and perhaps a cam 0.75-#2 to fill-in between bolt #2 and the pin. The start is a tad on the hairy side, so consider using a stickclip.
According to Levin's guidebook: P2 has four bolts, and P3 has four bolts and several pins.
9 Comments