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Mistaken Identity
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.9 from 104 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Don O'Kelly, Don O'Kelly Jr. 1976 |
Page Views: | 4,340 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Fun route! Just right of George's Buttress is a smooth steep face with 2 bolts and a large overhange above. This is New Year's Eve. Just right of this is a right angling hand crack through a bulge. Climb to the hand crack and over the bulge to a stance. Only a couple of hand jams are necessary, so you shouldn't need tape.
Above is a wide crack, which fortunately goes via fun stems. Above this start angling left following thing flared cracks and slabs. You are heading for the 2-bolt anchor on George's Buttress. There is a tricky move up a thin crack in a slab--the crux I thought. At a small ceiling step left then back right to clear it. One more tricky move leads straight left to the anchors and a good stance.
This felt much easy than its sister 5.9 to the right, Stoner's Boner, but I was self-belaying that one and so may have struggled more than necessary.
Above is a wide crack, which fortunately goes via fun stems. Above this start angling left following thing flared cracks and slabs. You are heading for the 2-bolt anchor on George's Buttress. There is a tricky move up a thin crack in a slab--the crux I thought. At a small ceiling step left then back right to clear it. One more tricky move leads straight left to the anchors and a good stance.
This felt much easy than its sister 5.9 to the right, Stoner's Boner, but I was self-belaying that one and so may have struggled more than necessary.
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