Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Don O'Kelly, Don O'Kelly Jr. 1976
Page Views: 4,340 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ivan Rezucha on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


104 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Fun route! Just right of George's Buttress is a smooth steep face with 2 bolts and a large overhange above. This is New Year's Eve. Just right of this is a right angling hand crack through a bulge. Climb to the hand crack and over the bulge to a stance. Only a couple of hand jams are necessary, so you shouldn't need tape.

Above is a wide crack, which fortunately goes via fun stems. Above this start angling left following thing flared cracks and slabs. You are heading for the 2-bolt anchor on George's Buttress. There is a tricky move up a thin crack in a slab--the crux I thought. At a small ceiling step left then back right to clear it. One more tricky move leads straight left to the anchors and a good stance.

This felt much easy than its sister 5.9 to the right, Stoner's Boner, but I was self-belaying that one and so may have struggled more than necessary.

Protection Suggest change

Double cams from green Alien to gold Camalot (about 3/8" to 2.5"). Above that, singles to at least a #4 Friend. I used a #4 Camalot, but a 3.5 Camalot/#4 Friend would work. Single set of nuts. Long slings. 2-bolt anchor that is shared with the right/standard variation of George's Tree.

Photos

loading