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> 8 - Summit Crags
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> Southeast Face
The Rupley Route
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 24
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Routes in Southeast Face
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Alcazar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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As You Like It S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Camelot T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chapalot S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cyberwanker S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Finishing School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Forced Stress S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fort Stress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Name 1 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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No Name 2 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pitched Battle T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Quartz Jester S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rupley Route, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sir Clipalot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sneak Attack S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Steel Crazy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Frijoles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yo Yo Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | John Rupley, et. al., 60's? |
| Page Views: | 5,978 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
The Rupley Route is a great mixed face and crack line that runs all the way up the Fortress. Although rated a moderate 5.9, the short crux face bit on first pitch was a little surprising in it's difficulty. It felt harder to me than some of the 10's at Munchkin Wall. Having said that, the bolts are pretty close together and you can always yard on the draws to get through the hard part if you get stuck.
The route starts kinda left-middle at the base of the south face. The route Steel Crazy starts at the same place (and crosses over the first pitch of the Rupley line). The Rupley Route starts about 30 feet up a gully from a ledge with lots of bushes. Belay up to this spot if you think soloing up there seems risky.
Pitch 1) Climb on good holds out left off the bushy ledge, clipping a series of bolts. As you move out, it starts feeling very steep and the holds get smaller, but they're mostly good. Once you pull onto the main face around the left, things get easier. Climb up, following the good holds. The wall goes vertical to get up to the belay. Follow the Steel crazy bolts up an arete to gain the big ledge system above with anchor bolts and chains.
Pitch 2) From the belay, go right up a ramp towards a small tower. Climb up (slightly runout) this tower past a couple of bolts and then continue above to reach an alcove where you can get good gear and belay just below the nice-looking third pitch crack.
Pitch 3) Make an airy move on good holds out of the alcove to gain the main crack running up the wall. Excellent crack and knob climbing straight up the wall to where the crack kinda peters out a bit. Old bolt and gear here to set up a hanging belay.
Pitch 4) Climb up (yet more knobs!) and over the steep stuff above the belay (5.8+) past a couple of bolts. After the fun climbing, the wall starts to roll off. Run on up to a pair of rusty bolts on the shoulder near the top and belay.
Descent: Getting off the Fortress is a bit tricky and care should be taken, especially if you're not sure where you're going. From the top of the Rupley Route, head up and towards the right. A deep cleft kinda splits the top towards the right. You want to get up on top of the right half here, which may require either some soloing or belayed leading. Again, BE CAREFUL! Once on top of this hump, you can easily scramble along it all the way to the back of the crag and the ground. Follow the easiest path.
The route starts kinda left-middle at the base of the south face. The route Steel Crazy starts at the same place (and crosses over the first pitch of the Rupley line). The Rupley Route starts about 30 feet up a gully from a ledge with lots of bushes. Belay up to this spot if you think soloing up there seems risky.
Pitch 1) Climb on good holds out left off the bushy ledge, clipping a series of bolts. As you move out, it starts feeling very steep and the holds get smaller, but they're mostly good. Once you pull onto the main face around the left, things get easier. Climb up, following the good holds. The wall goes vertical to get up to the belay. Follow the Steel crazy bolts up an arete to gain the big ledge system above with anchor bolts and chains.
Pitch 2) From the belay, go right up a ramp towards a small tower. Climb up (slightly runout) this tower past a couple of bolts and then continue above to reach an alcove where you can get good gear and belay just below the nice-looking third pitch crack.
Pitch 3) Make an airy move on good holds out of the alcove to gain the main crack running up the wall. Excellent crack and knob climbing straight up the wall to where the crack kinda peters out a bit. Old bolt and gear here to set up a hanging belay.
Pitch 4) Climb up (yet more knobs!) and over the steep stuff above the belay (5.8+) past a couple of bolts. After the fun climbing, the wall starts to roll off. Run on up to a pair of rusty bolts on the shoulder near the top and belay.
Descent: Getting off the Fortress is a bit tricky and care should be taken, especially if you're not sure where you're going. From the top of the Rupley Route, head up and towards the right. A deep cleft kinda splits the top towards the right. You want to get up on top of the right half here, which may require either some soloing or belayed leading. Again, BE CAREFUL! Once on top of this hump, you can easily scramble along it all the way to the back of the crag and the ground. Follow the easiest path.
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