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One Stop in Tonopah
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 8
votes
Routes in Brass Wall
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Alternative Facts T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Arachnoworld T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Big Horn, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bird Cage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birdland T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birdlaw T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black Hole, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Brass Balls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bus Stops Here T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Bush Pilots T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chocolate Covered Bacon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cut Away T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Fungus folks T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Go Greyhound T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heavy Spider Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hidden Persuaders, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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LojVegas T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Mo (AKA Nowhere Man) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Moons Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Mushroom People T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mystery Mushroom? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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No Laughing Matter T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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One Stop in Tonopah T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pazookieland T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Psycho Date T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Raptor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rawlpindi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ripcord T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Rogue Fungus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sea of Holes T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Serious Business T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Simpatico T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sky Dive T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sniveler T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Spectrum T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Super Greens T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Super S T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Table Greens T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tinkerbellfusse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Topless Twins T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unfinished Business T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Valore T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Varnishing Fact T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Varnishing Point T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zen and the Art of Web Spinning T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Paul Crawford 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,755 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ken Heiser on Dec 24, 2004 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Start this climb about 25 feet to the right of "Varnishing Point" at the bottom of several loose flakes standing up against the triangular flake/pillar.Climb up through the loose flakes with good pro if the flakes stay attached to the wall. Clip a bolt at about 40 feet then continue on up another 25 feet or so and stand on top of a flake that is completely detached from the flake/ledges. I am not sure what is keeping this flake attached to the wall. Place excellent gear in a good horizontal, make one move to the right using the horizontal, then fire through a fun crux using holes in the vertical wall. After the crux move up through a large hueco on excellent holds clipping a second bolt above the hueco. After the bolt continue up the outside face of the flake/pillar using cams in huecos, horizontals, and cracks for over 100 feet of fun, exposed, excellent climbing. It is possible after the second bolt to escape from the face around the corner to the right to make the climbing much easier and better protected but I chose to stay out on the face as the climbing is more sustained and better quality there. I placed 11 pieces of protection including the bolts in 150 feet of climbing.
This route would not be considered a classic by most people but I enjoyed it very much because of the very old school trad feel, the vertical very exposed climbing, and the need to really trust that "there really will be holds and gear up there". I only gave it one star despite the excellent climbing on the upper face because of the looseness of the lower section and the lack of distinct line.
This route would not be considered a classic by most people but I enjoyed it very much because of the very old school trad feel, the vertical very exposed climbing, and the need to really trust that "there really will be holds and gear up there". I only gave it one star despite the excellent climbing on the upper face because of the looseness of the lower section and the lack of distinct line.
Protection
The first 30-40 feet of this climb has good pro that is contingent on the flake the pro is placed in staying attached to the cliff. At about 40 feet there is a bolt. The crux is well protected with cams place in a horizontal. There is another bolt at about 70 feet after the crux. On the remainder of the pitch the pro is contingent upon the exact line followed.I stayed on the face for the duration and found adequate pro with cams in horizontals, in huecos and in small cracks on the face.
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