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Elevation: 1,196 ft
GPS: 43.41665, -89.72612
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 43,535 total · 161/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding

Description Suggest change

Horse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a).

Getting There Suggest change

To find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall.

A more direct approach is to scramble directly up the boulder field, past Lothar's Ledges, which may be passed on either the right or the left. Especially when the trail by Birthday is muddy, this may actually be the easiest approach!

Access to the top can be found either up the second or third gully to the left of Monarch, or to the right of Teetering Tower.

28 Total Climbs

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Location: 7.3 - Horse Rampart Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at 7.3 - Horse Rampart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 57
The Horse
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 43
Scavenger of Human Sorrow
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
Pullman Car
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 43
Primak's Surprise
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 83
Via Apia
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Archery
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Lechery
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Debauchery
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Peanut Butter
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 29
Mother Smucker's Jam
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 134
Roger's Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 49
Mung
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Plethora
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Woger's Woof Wightside
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Horse
 57
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Scavenger of Human Sorrow
 43
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Pullman Car
 36
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Primak's Surprise
 43
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Via Apia
 83
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Archery
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Lechery
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Debauchery
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Peanut Butter
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mother Smucker's Jam
 29
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Roger's Roof
 134
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Mung
 49
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Plethora
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Woger's Woof Wightside
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in 7.3 - Horse Rampart »

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