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The Talking Fish
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.1 from 15
votes
Routes in Upper Freeway Wall
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Anacram T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cakewalk T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Freeway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Junkyard God T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Meaner than a Junkyard Dog T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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MetroLink TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nobody Walks in LA T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pretty Gritty T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sig Alert (aka Cast Up a Highway) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Talking Fish, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Totally Nuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Unknown T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Unknown route 2 T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Todd Gordon, Tom Beck, 9/88 |
| Page Views: | 1,590 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Randy on Feb 5, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This fine route is located near the far right end of the Upper Freeway Wall, and begins about 10 feet right of Cake Walk. Though not given many stars in the past (and thus mostly overlooked), it is definitely worthy of attention (maybe 3 of 5 stars). As good as Anacram and of similar difficulty.
From the get-go, interesting face climbing next to seam (5.10c) is protected by 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro). Past here, easy climbing up a left slanting crack leads to a bulge. Here the crack changes direction again (leaning a bit right). The transition above the bulge involves a few difficult moves (5.10c). Easier climbing up the flared crack; save a couple 1.5 to 2.5 inch cams to provide possible protection. A fairly long enjoyable pitch.
Downclimb the east face (behind the top of Cake Walk) then head down a rocky gully until you can traverse around the south side of the formation and back to the base.
From the get-go, interesting face climbing next to seam (5.10c) is protected by 3 bolts and 1 fixed pin (a 1.5" cam provides additional/optional pro). Past here, easy climbing up a left slanting crack leads to a bulge. Here the crack changes direction again (leaning a bit right). The transition above the bulge involves a few difficult moves (5.10c). Easier climbing up the flared crack; save a couple 1.5 to 2.5 inch cams to provide possible protection. A fairly long enjoyable pitch.
Downclimb the east face (behind the top of Cake Walk) then head down a rocky gully until you can traverse around the south side of the formation and back to the base.
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