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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Steve Bartlett, Strappo Hughes, 1991. FFA: Ralph Ferrara, Steve Bartlett, 2001 |
| Page Views: | 1,448 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Mar 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A real mixture here. PItch 1 is face to awkward chimney, pitch 2 classic spooky Monument Basin face climbing, pitch 3 steep well protected crack, and pitch four slightly spooky face moves on "good" rock. The summit, if it still there, is rotten, and getting onto it is rather undignified. The free version of this route follows the aid version, except the first pitch, which takes a wide chimney/flare just right of the aid start.
Begin on right side of north face, under this chimney/flare.
1. Boulder up the awkward face to the chimney, which is easier than it appears. Up this to a ledge system on the west arete (5.10a, 50').
2. Move left, then up a short crack. Step awkwardly left onto a ledge, and traverse 15 feet left. Climb straight up (crux) to a niche under a protruding block, surmount the block on its right; belay (5.10c R, 50').
3. Up the obvious crack, passing a 5.11a bulge, to the shoulder (5.11a, 60').
4. Thin face gains a higher shoulder, and a two-bolt anchor (5.9 R, 20').
5. Climb to the rotten summit (5.7 R, 20').
Descent: Reverse the summit pitch to the bolt anchor. Rappel north 190' to the ground.
Begin on right side of north face, under this chimney/flare.
1. Boulder up the awkward face to the chimney, which is easier than it appears. Up this to a ledge system on the west arete (5.10a, 50').
2. Move left, then up a short crack. Step awkwardly left onto a ledge, and traverse 15 feet left. Climb straight up (crux) to a niche under a protruding block, surmount the block on its right; belay (5.10c R, 50').
3. Up the obvious crack, passing a 5.11a bulge, to the shoulder (5.11a, 60').
4. Thin face gains a higher shoulder, and a two-bolt anchor (5.9 R, 20').
5. Climb to the rotten summit (5.7 R, 20').
Descent: Reverse the summit pitch to the bolt anchor. Rappel north 190' to the ground.
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