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> Snow Canyon SP
> Island In The Sky
> Circus Wall
Jimmy the Geek
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 29
votes
Routes in Circus Wall
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Barbarian T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Cloudwalker T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Freak Show S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grey Nomads S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Illegal Alien S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jimmy the Geek S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Just Desserts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pygmy Alien T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roar of the Greasepaint S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Trapeze T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Unknown 5.11 T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Ventura Highway T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,057 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 3, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: PRECIPITATION AND WET ROCK
Details
The sandstone here is easily damaged when wet. Please allow at least 24-48 hours before climbing after any precipitation. If the ground is at all damp, please do not climb on any local sandstone. Consider nearby options on basalt, limestone, granite, or plastic instead.
Description
This route is easily identified on Circus wall by it's mid-face anchor of 3 pins equalized with webbing (presently blue/grey) and a rapid link.
The first pitch begins from the ground moving up some distance to a series of 5 pins, tending gently left to the left side of the rock below this anchor. The second pitch moves sharply up and right into a cave with an additional (similar) anchor within it. The first station and anchor are easily obverved from below. The pins have a small chop or two of the original blue paint in a few places that can be made out upon vey close inspection.
P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up the easy slab to reach the first pin and then as the angle steepens reach a small-holds crux (5.9) with some sloper feet before a flat section of the wall (3rd pin?). P2: (5.9, 50') Continue to and past anchor as an extension of P1 if possible (shoudl be if you used long draws), bending sharp right, clipping at the waist past 2 more pins before going to a very vertical section with a reachy crux (5.9) with a pin overhead, then up easier moves into the cave.
A single rap is required for easy retreat due to the right-hand movement of the second pitch. This can be done down to 4th class terrain with a single 70M rope or to the base with two 50M ropes. Either seems safe for anyone remotely capable of leadingthis route.
The first pitch begins from the ground moving up some distance to a series of 5 pins, tending gently left to the left side of the rock below this anchor. The second pitch moves sharply up and right into a cave with an additional (similar) anchor within it. The first station and anchor are easily obverved from below. The pins have a small chop or two of the original blue paint in a few places that can be made out upon vey close inspection.
P1: (5.9, 100') Climb up the easy slab to reach the first pin and then as the angle steepens reach a small-holds crux (5.9) with some sloper feet before a flat section of the wall (3rd pin?). P2: (5.9, 50') Continue to and past anchor as an extension of P1 if possible (shoudl be if you used long draws), bending sharp right, clipping at the waist past 2 more pins before going to a very vertical section with a reachy crux (5.9) with a pin overhead, then up easier moves into the cave.
A single rap is required for easy retreat due to the right-hand movement of the second pitch. This can be done down to 4th class terrain with a single 70M rope or to the base with two 50M ropes. Either seems safe for anyone remotely capable of leadingthis route.
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