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The Road Not Taken

Name: The Road Not Taken
Rating: 2.7

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Lost World Butte

L › R R › L A › Z

	30 Minute Tape Job T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Birthday Gift, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C0 R
	Choss Dispenser, The 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A2
	Entreating Entrance T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Gateway to the Lost World. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C1
	Golden Brown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
	Howe/Ross - End of the World Crag T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1
	IF T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3-
	Kripling Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
	Pearly Gates T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1
	Persistence Rules T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C1
	Red Headed Stranger T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Road Not Taken, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Spartans at the Door T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown 5.10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches
FA:	Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant,(Var Leads) Layne Potter Oct 11 2001
Page Views:	14,876 total · 54/month
Shared By:	Paul Ross on Oct 10, 2001
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The Road Not Taken III 5.10.

AS one reaches the Butte in front of the parking area the route takes a system of ramps on the east face. The 1st pitch takes a break in the lower wall, directly below the large spikey blocks midway on the upper ramp.

P1: Traverse right across a flake to a short hand crack to the rocky ledge and block belay 60'. Move belay about 300'left along the ledge to the start of the massive right-diagonal ramp. Double bolt belay.

P2: Follow ramp, at 20' 5.7 up wide crack, then easy to 5.6 step down to good ledge and 2 bolt anchor/rap 190'.

P3: Up through 5.8 squeeze chimney to belay behind large blocks 85'

P4: The great goolie basher crack, a superb and unusual pitch. Most of this 180' pitch is about 5.7 .the final 20' is a 5.10 lieback into a short off-width.

Descent: From the ledge just above the final belay, walk 300' left to rap anchors. It is essential that the first person down carries prussics or ascenders and knots the rope ends,as one does not touch rock until 40' below rap anchors. swing and get onto double bolts top of P3. or best walk to descent of Pearly Gates. (See new Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad)

First Ascent:_ Jeff Pheasant, Paul Ross, Layne Potter.. Oct 2001. To date there are about 9 multi-pitch new routes on this Butte and about 9 in the Tombstone Area half mile or so from the Lost World. Many are recorded in the new Guide book.A nice quiet area.