100 foot pitch to 2 3/8 bolts on right of OW at top, visible from road. 5.9-10a(?). (I was rope soloing, so maybe my rating is off.) Hand/fist up solid rock. 1.5 Friend to #4 friend (just below) last OW before bolts. I used a mix of cams up to #3 Camalots (3 of em) and a few larger stoppers along the way in addition. (Good climb, but I don't know it's name, who did it or how long it's been there. I did it 10/23/04 and will send a photo if you publish this.)
Right leaning crack/left facing corner to the right of the giant block up on the wingate above the bouldering area on River Road at Big Bend campground. Park in the bouldering turnout and walk directly up to route.