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l. Sleepy Hollow
Routes Sorted
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 
Almost Pure and Simple T 
Art's Route T 
Boron Destroyer T 
Casa Emilio T 
Casablanca T 
Casanova T 
Counterstrike T 
Crack of Despondency T 
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 
Dick's Prick T 
Emilietta T 
Fancy Free T 
Footloose T 
Four-Foot Face T 
Headless Horseman T 
Independent Hangover T 
Lone Ranger, The T 
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 
Pfui Teufel T 
Tennish Anyone? T 
Trigger Point T 
V.D. T 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 

10,000 Restless Virgins 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Sam Slater & Mike Freeman - 1982
Page Views: 8,390
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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The second move after placing gear. (climber: Davi...

Description 

10,000 Restless Virgins is representative of many Gunks climbs as it has a wonderful name (anyone know the story behind it?) and, of course, a challenging roof.

It is located at the far right end of the Trapps, and the start is actually concealed by a massive boulder (Dick's Prick pinnacle) that sits at the base of the cliff. One must scramble down into a pit formed by the boulder and the main wall.

Climb up a crack system and left-facing corner until you are situated beneath the roof. From here pull the roof (crux) up and left, and continue heading up and slightly left to a fixed anchor just over the roof.

This is a great, well-protected climb that is certainly worth the effort to approach. While you're at this end of the Trapps consider climbing Wegetables I've Never Seen Before and Simple Suff -- two other nice climbs in this general area.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of 10,000 Restless Virgins Slideshow Add Photo
The long reach. (climber: David Gilbert)
The long reach. (climber: David Gilbert)
Below the crux roof. (climber: David Gilbert)
Below the crux roof. (climber: David Gilbert)
Mid crux. (climber: David Gilbert)
Mid crux. (climber: David Gilbert)
In the nice layback/stem corner which doesn't get much discussion usually (because of what's above it). (photo by Becky Diamond)
In the nice layback/stem corner which doesn't get ...
The fun begins.
The fun begins.
Making the big reach. (photo by Becky Diamond)
Making the big reach. (photo by Becky Diamond)
It's a long move, but not impossible for the vertically challenged like myself. (I'm 5'7") (photo by Becky Diamond)
It's a long move, but not impossible for the verti...
Approaching the roof.  Photo by Tricia.
Approaching the roof. Photo by Tricia.
Making the second reach to the horizontal by the bush. If you can lock off, it's not too bad. I could never lock off.
Making the second reach to the horizontal by the b...
Pulling the roof.
Pulling the roof.
Ready for the final move of the crux. Great onsight Dave!(climber: David Gilbert)
Ready for the final move of the crux. Great onsigh...
Under the roof - the huge undercling. (climber: David Gilbert)
Under the roof - the huge undercling. (climber: Da...
Finishing the crux.  Photo by Tricia.
Finishing the crux. Photo by Tricia.
The initial corner.  This is harder in the rain, fyi.
The initial corner. This is harder in the rain, f...
starting the crux...
starting the crux...
Making the first reach. Not too hard if you're tall enough.
Making the first reach. Not too hard if you're tal...
Starting the crux. Early 80s?
Starting the crux. Early 80s?
a beautiful, steep line
a beautiful, steep line

Comments on 10,000 Restless Virgins Add Comment
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By Leo Hski
Nov 28, 2006

The origin of the name? Per Sam Slater: "after leading this route you'll be as tired as if you had spent the night with ...."
By JSH
Administrator
Oct 13, 2010

And, note that Dick's Prick pinnacle is just about touching 10,000 Restless Virgins.
By ericcr
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

how can this route's amazingness be properly quantified?

the climbing is difficult, continuous, aesthetic, and varied. it is well protected. the location is unique and pretty, and the route is rarely crowded.

how lucky were those guys to show up in the 80s and find this thing unclimbed.
By kenr
May 15, 2013

My first 10d (following) in the Gunks. Moves thru the roof easier than expected (with excellent coaching by my partner). The moves felt to me like an "indoor" sequence. The problems were to get over the intimidation, see how to start the sequence, and (for the leader) to protect it well.

At 169.5cm / 5ft7in roughly normal reach, I could grab the key bucket fully static, no deadpoint needed. I'd guess it would be much harder for someone less than 168cm / 5ft6in.

My partner leading found it less strenuous just below the roof to first quickly get in a couple of pieces, then hang from those while improving and extending (to a 3-point equalized config). Just above the roof I seem to remember a couple of pretty small cams.

Afterward TR ...
From the top anchor it's possible to do some (otherwise unprotectable) entertaining wide-chimney / stemming on top-rope -- between the main wall and the inside face of the pinnacle -- bring your camera (only place I know for this in the Gunks). Then for those with long legs, can move from the stemming onto the inside wall and try to climb a thin crack (much harder than Restless Virgins).
By georgejessel
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

This route is really superb. The moves are sustained and aesthetic throughout, and it's really not that hard. Anybody who does a little gym climbing should find the crux surprisingly mellow--the holds are all huge. It's certainly technically easier than nearby Tennish and unlike that route the gear is G. My only regret is depriving myself of the true onsight by looking at the photos on this site. Lesson learned.
By rogerbenton
Jun 16, 2014

I dunno, I found this to be tough. The moves and holds are there but it's real work getting established over that roof.