|Penitente - Inner Canyon
10,000 Maniacs is immediately right of Brown Sugar and ascends the same wall. Expect very similar climbing with longer reaches on a slightly past vertical wall. The angle drops back to dead vertical after 20 ft but never drops below this until quite close to the anchor. Angle a bit right-wards to get started and really work the feet. Clipping the first couple of bolts seems a bit spooky until the fingers are warmed up. The climbing on Maniacs is quite continuous and the diminishing edges just never get very wide. This is an excellent route with considerable tweak factor for something only 50 ft long.
Half a dozen draws and a rope.
|By Dirty Murph|
From: Alamosa, Colorado
Sep 30, 2008
Some asshole took off with the first bolt. Also, might want a couple of pads to protect the groundfall.
|By Curt Nelson|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Great route. The first bolt/hanger is back as of 6-2009. There seems to be a problem with assholes taking hangers around here. I can't comprehend why some one would do that. Thanks to whoever put it back.
Dec 5, 2010
I have no idea what my problem is...but this felt a bit harder than an 11c. Not sure why I think that...Forbidden Fruit honestly felt easier than this. For what it's worth...oh well...maybe I just need to HTFU!!
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 20, 2011
The crux for me was right off the ground. Excellent route - not pumpy or powerful at all, just techy. Brown Sugar makes for a great warm up for this route.
|By Chris Mack|
May 19, 2013
The start of this is insane. Something haaad to have broken off... right? :)