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 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs S 
7/11 S 
A Virgin No More S 
Air Jordan S 
Anatomy 101 S 
Animosity S 
Apes in Estrus S 
B1 or V5 S 
Bad Rap S 
Banana Slugs in Heat S 
Black Jesus S 
Black Sheets of Rain S 
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 
Brown Sugar S 
Bullet the Blue Sky S 
Candy Apple Grey S 
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 
Colville Express S 
Concupiscent Curds S 
Dazed and Confuzed S 
Dog's Delight S 
El Dedo Es la Llave S 
Forever Young S 
Freddy's Nightmare S 
Friday the 13th S 
Handle with Care T,S 
Harvey's Wallbanger T 
Head Over Heals S 
Heaven Can Wait T 
Hip Hop S 
How The West Was Won S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 
Innocent Mission S 
Intimidator S 
Jabba the Hut S 
Jack and Diane S 
Jewel Of The Mild S 
Josie's  S 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 
Morada S 
Ms. Cool S 
No Intent S 
No Sweat, No Vapor S 
Not My Cross To Bear S 
Nueve a Seis S 
Omnipenitent S 
Ordinary People S 
Passion Play S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Ranck E S 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 
Santa Cruz T 
Schizoid Way S 
Shady Lady S 
Shear Strength S 
Sheer Lunacy S 
Sister of Mercy S 
Soul Boy S 
Tanks for the Hueco S 
Tao of Gymnastic S 
True Penitence T 
Unbound S 
Unknown S 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 
Unknown 5.10a S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
Unrepenitente S 
Vapor Trails S 
Unsorted Routes:

10,000 Maniacs 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan and Rick Westbay, 1988
Page Views: 1,128
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

10,000 Maniacs is immediately right of Brown Sugar and ascends the same wall. Expect very similar climbing with longer reaches on a slightly past vertical wall. The angle drops back to dead vertical after 20 ft but never drops below this until quite close to the anchor. Angle a bit right-wards to get started and really work the feet. Clipping the first couple of bolts seems a bit spooky until the fingers are warmed up. The climbing on Maniacs is quite continuous and the diminishing edges just never get very wide. This is an excellent route with considerable tweak factor for something only 50 ft long.


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



Comments on 10,000 Maniacs Add Comment
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By Dirty Murph
From: Alamosa, Colorado
Sep 30, 2008

Some asshole took off with the first bolt. Also, might want a couple of pads to protect the groundfall.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route. The first bolt/hanger is back as of 6-2009. There seems to be a problem with assholes taking hangers around here. I can't comprehend why some one would do that. Thanks to whoever put it back.

By Slade
From: Gunnison
Dec 5, 2010

I have no idea what my problem is...but this felt a bit harder than an 11c. Not sure why I think that...Forbidden Fruit honestly felt easier than this. For what it's worth...oh well...maybe I just need to HTFU!!

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 20, 2011

The crux for me was right off the ground. Excellent route - not pumpy or powerful at all, just techy. Brown Sugar makes for a great warm up for this route.

By Chris Mack
May 19, 2013

The start of this is insane. Something haaad to have broken off... right? :)

By peachy spohn
May 24, 2014

Bouldery start but worth it for the top 2/3.