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10,000 Leagues is an interesting route that weaves a path between some classic bits of climbing. While parts are lichenous, and somewhat contrived, it's a worthwhile route for someone who's climbed everything else on this excellent sector of the Redgarden Wall.
P1: Begin with the infamous third pitch of Jules Verne, climb through the big runout, and then continue past the broken band onto Lene's Dream. A few body-lengths above the broken band, reach a slanting pod for a green Alien. Instead of cutting right to The Naked Edge, cast off up and left, following an incipient seam.
As the wall slabs out, traverse left to the fixed pin-nut belay on Jules Verne.
The JV-LD part of the pitch is probably 5.11- R, and the 10kL part is 5.10 R.
P2: Traverse right off the JV belay towards a short, right-angling flake system. Place good gear here, then climb up into another vague crack system. Trend left up the featured wall, through a shallow, right-facing corner, and finally rejoin JV below a big roof to belay. 5.11- R.
P3: Climb the JV roof. Continue up, and stay straight where JV breaks left. Chase dirty seams and thin face holds up increasingly slabby terrain, finishing on the summit ridge. 10+ R.
Gear to #2 Camalot, heavy on the thin stuff.
|Comments on 10,000 Leagues
|By Scott Bennett|
Dec 6, 2012
A few more notes:
Steve Levin calls for Tricams and Slider-nuts. I brought 'em, but they stayed on my harness the whole time. I did find C3s to be useful.
Also, this route might not merit a three star rating on its own, but the climbing on Jules Verne is mega-classic, and the position is amazing. If it were clean, maybe it'd be a different story, but I don't think that'll happen soon.