|Redgarden - Tower Two
10,000 Leagues is an interesting route that weaves a path between some classic bits of climbing. While parts are lichenous, and somewhat contrived, it's a worthwhile route for someone who's climbed everything else on this excellent sector of the Redgarden Wall.
P1: Begin with the infamous third pitch of Jules Verne, climb through the big runout, and then continue past the broken band onto Lene's Dream. A few body-lengths above the broken band, reach a slanting pod for a green Alien. Instead of cutting right to The Naked Edge, cast off up and left, following an incipient seam.
As the wall slabs out, traverse left to the fixed pin-nut belay on Jules Verne.
The JV-LD part of the pitch is probably 5.11- R, and the 10kL part is 5.10 R.
P2: Traverse right off the JV belay towards a short, right-angling flake system. Place good gear here, then climb up into another vague crack system. Trend left up the featured wall, through a shallow, right-facing corner, and finally rejoin JV below a big roof to belay. 5.11- R.
P3: Climb the JV roof. Continue up, and stay straight where JV breaks left. Chase dirty seams and thin face holds up increasingly slabby terrain, finishing on the summit ridge. 10+ R.
Gear to #2 Camalot, heavy on the thin stuff.
|By Scott Bennett|
Dec 6, 2012
A few more notes:
Steve Levin calls for Tricams and Slider-nuts. I brought 'em, but they stayed on my harness the whole time. I did find C3s to be useful.
Also, this route might not merit a three star rating on its own, but the climbing on Jules Verne is mega-classic, and the position is amazing. If it were clean, maybe it'd be a different story, but I don't think that'll happen soon.
|By topher donahue|
Dec 27, 2013
Good to hear this climb is getting a bit of traffic and quality assessment by the experts, but I am a bit curious how it could get an easier grade than Lene's Dream, when you have to do the crux of Lene's Dream en route?
Also, on the pitch Scott describes as pitch 2, it appears he exited left early. This pitch is drawn in too far left in Levin's book. On the FA, we angled right until just a few feet from the 5.8 pitch on The Edge, (as close as you can get during the closed season and still be legal!) then stepped left (where we placed a red tricam in a pocket) and climbed a 3" crack before stepping again right onto a steep, hueco wall with insane exposure just left of the 5.8 pitch of The Edge.
Anyway, this line kind of straightens out Jules Verne from the ground to the summit. On the FA, we also climbed the direct variation of the real pitch 1 of Jules Verne (going straight up at the long dihedral after leaving T2 rather than left to the bolts) which has been claimed a few times as an FA with various grades but was probably first climbed by Malcolm Daly in the late '80s.
|By Scott Bennett|
Mar 17, 2014
Thanks for the comment, and all your awesome routes, Topher! I'm a pretty bad route-grader, so I just gave this route the grade I felt was appropriate. If I remember Lene's Dream correctly, the crux of that pitch comes just before joining the Edge, whereas 10k Leagues breaks left sooner. But haven't climbed either route in a while, so take that with a grain of salt.
Glad to hear there's more terrain on this route that I didn't find the first time, I'll definitely have to go back up and try it again.