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 ADVANCED
Creek Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
100 Proof S 
Are There Bolts Up There? T 
Big Bro's Watchin' (AKA: Luebben Memorial Route) T 
Black Gold S 
Brennivin T,S 
Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 
Crackside T 
Crackside Direct (var.) T 
Creekafixion S 
Fish and Chips S 
Fool's Gold S 
Golden Hammer, The S 
Guppy S 
Little Sister S 
Macho Borracho S 
Playin' Hooky S 
Psychotic Love T 
Rhett Wench S 
Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 
Shenanigans S 
Solid Gold T,S 
Spun Gold S 
Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 
Winterfest S 

100 Proof 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: D. Montgomery & K. McIlrath, 10-19-09
New Route: Yes
Season: sunny most of the day
Page Views: 3,846
Submitted By: Monty on Oct 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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In the steep crux -photo by Darren Mabe.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

The Skinny! 

This is another new addition to the left side of Creekside, or as I like to call it the "binge side."

Start up on solid black rock on crisp edges and crimpers passing 3 bolts (low 10). Rest at a stance clip another bolt make a couple tenuous mid 11 moves to a good flat crimp, clip. Adjust your hands, smear your feet and deadpoint/ dyno to a sloper. Make a tough clip from the sloper, and a few more 11ish moves and finish on fun 5.10 climbing to the anchor of Rumpleminze.

  • From this anchor, you can either lower or continue up and right through a brilliant, slab traverse (11-) to the belay at the base of the Brennivin roof.

This is essentially a harder, and more direct version of Rumpleminze. It is convenient to climb Rumpleminze and hang the draws on 100 Proof on your way down. This is also a more classic way to access the roof routes above.

Protection 

8 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.
There is a 1 bolt extension to the anchor for Brennivin routes.

Where you at? 

This route is located in between Rumpleminze and the regular start to Brennivin. Approach via Shenanigans, or wade across the creek in low water.


Photos of 100 Proof Slideshow Add Photo
Another view of the extension of 100 Proof to the ...
Another view of the extension of 100 Proof to the ...
Skipping the anchor of 100 proof, and slabing it u...
Skipping the anchor of 100 proof, and slabing it u...
Darren setting up for the crux throw of 100 Proof....
Darren setting up for the crux throw of 100 Proof....

Comments on 100 Proof Add Comment
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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yeeeeee haw!!! Great work rekindling development in this area!
By Luke Childers
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nice... love me some new develpment!! Can't wait to check it out!! Routes look so good. Thanks for all your hard work!!!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Excellent, excellent line at Binge Side. Continuous climbing and 12a seems about dead on, I think it clocks in a bit harder than Rhett Wench (11+). Techy crux. Stays after you until the very end. Great stone that will brush up nicely. Well done, Dave, good eye! This will easily get 3 stars in the revision of my book.
By Luke Childers
Mar 26, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Just climbed this line today and I must say... it's quite good!! Crimps and dynamic movement make this route a fine line. Everyone should give this one a go!!! Nice work Dave.. thanks for your efforts, man!!!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 12, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I have found that since the bolt at the end of the crux is difficult for me to clip, having poor feet for a clipping stance, climbing slightly past you can clip it at your waist. The fall here is still clean, however, if your belayer is careful.
By Clint Hager
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow, what a great route! This was my first 5.12 redpoint. Woohoo! I felt like the hardest part of the climb was clipping while holding onto the slopy dyno hold. I definitely recommend this route to anyone trying to break into the 12 range. You can get some really good rests in this route, right before the crux and after it as well. Also, using the Tyrol to get to the route just adds to the fun!
By Geoff U
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Aug 4, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun route with solid rock.
BETA ALERT
There is no reason to clip off the sloper, nor to climb above - a few feet left of the sloper is a great sidepull. Either match hands on the sloper, or crimp up and right, then go left hand to the sidepull and get the feet up for an easy clip.