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The Parking Lot Wall
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100% Columbian S 
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Curly for President S 
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Easily Amused S 
Easily Aroused S 
Egg McMeadows S 
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Squeeze My Lemon S 

100% Columbian 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Chris Smith7/01
Page Views: 2,830
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Tom eyeing the crux dead point.
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The hardest route at the Parking Lot Wall. It happens to be much better and more interesting than it looks.A series of sequency problems, supper crimpy in parts with good holds between.

Start on the ledge on the far right side of the cliff just right of Espresso (5.10d). Clip the first bolt from the comfortable ledge and head up an left out over the drop off. A few more crimpy left trending moves and then you head straight up past crimps underclings and even a few jugs thrown in there.

I didn't think the route looked good, so I waited years to do it. Now I highly recommend it.


Location 

From the ledge on the far right side of the crag, move to the left side of the ledge clip the first bolt from there.


Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips.



Photos of 100% Columbian Slideshow Add Photo
Ladd making the 1st deadpoint.
Ladd making the 1st deadpoint.
Muel going up with different beta.
Muel going up with different beta.
Tom clipping one of the upper bolts.
Tom clipping one of the upper bolts.
Comments on 100% Columbian Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 16, 2010

This now has six bolts including the one you clip from the ground that can double as a belayers bolt with a long enough sling. Super fun and crimpy :)

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 13, 2012

"I didn't think the route looked good, so I waited years to do it. Now I highly recommend it."
Smitty has a good eye for lines. You can usually count on them being at least "good". -very strong 2 stars from me for this one, would be 3 but I try to be conservative with them.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Feb 13, 2012

This is a fantastic line with some really great movement. Never had to wait in line for this thing either. :) Thanks Chris!