10 More Lumens
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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||unknown? (possibly Charlie Yarnell and Lucas Campbell 11/13/2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Long Sunlight Hours & Drought|
|Submitted By: ||steitz on Nov 16, 2010|
BETA PHOTO: the climb
This climb show's traces of mysterious climber's who have may attempted it before, mysterious rap bolts halfway up, ancient weathered gear from the 80s still shoved in cracks, but the upper pitches seem to be new ground.
The climb starts on the extreme right side of the Main Face, right next to the massive overhangs. It is the leftmost crack that heads straight up this portion of the wall.
Occasional ledges provide puny trees for slinging and belaying, and the line has less loose rock than typical Kineo climbing. It can be run out at times and extremely hard to protect.
Also, the climb is in the shade most of the day, and soaking wet whenever there has been rain within the last week.
Make sure you bring two ropes if you need to bail, as the last pitch if it's wet will be impassible, with no traverse option. Otherwise have a rope fixed by friends at the top for you to ascend, or risk spending the night.
2 pitches from the top there is a nice cave you can hide in.
And don't forget your headlamps. 10 more lumens might come in handy!
The route begins from the scree field underneath the overhangs. Watch out for rock fall. It is fairly constant here. You'll need to be dropped off by boat, or hike the entire perimeter of the island to get here.
There is an obvious corner / dirty chimney where the overhangs abut the main face. Pick out the leftmost hand crack near the chimney and boogie on up.
Standard trad rack. Full range of cams, stoppers. Points for hex placements