(10) Grab Your Balls  5.9

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Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Todd Damico, Tim Anderson 2001 Submitted By:  truello on Nov 26, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private Land MORE INFO >>> Popular belief is that the rocks are on State Gamelands 51 while the trail and parking are on private property. According to the map on the Game Commission Website, the northern boundary of the gamelands does not start until the Casparis area (south of Breakneck). The land is actually owned by a private company, possibly logging. Regardless, the locals seem to be friendly and do not cause much fuss. Ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash and do not block any of the roads with your vehicle. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A tricky start off the ground or easier if started from the rock to the right. Climb up easy ledges to a committing crux near the top.

A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.

Location 

#10 on topo

Protection 

3 bolts, double ring anchors.