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The School Gate crag is the looming, square-shaped sentinel that can be seen from across the bay. It is most people's introduction to the Dragon Cave since it has the shortest, easiest approach and contains a number of moderate trad and sport routes. It is also densely packed, allowing large groups of climbers to conveniently lay siege. You can expect there to be a huge concentration of people here from March-October. If you climb 5.12 you will find a number of great routes and won't have to cue.
Approach via the North Parking (see Area page) and head NE along the coast on a trail for maybe 10 minutes, following it until some large cliffs are seen. The first of the obviously climbable tall cliffs is a large block on your right side, called School Gate. The East and South Faces of this contain several sport and Trad lines, and along it's North face there is a protected Gully that contains a surprisingly good and long sport climb or two.
21 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in (1) School Gate
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for (1) School Gate:
Surprise Crack 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 70'
V-Groove 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 50'
Warm-up Route 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, 35'
Featured Route For (1) School Gate
First Corner 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Asia : Taiwan : ... : (1) School Gate
An incredibly fun sport climb for any venue, and certainly one of the best here. This climb has a little of everything, overhanging jugs, slapping of aretes, hidden pockets, technical footwork, and if you stay belly to the bolts (harder) even some flaring jams. The grade will depend on how directly you do the route, but will be in the 5.11 range.Climb up past 2 bolts to a technical crux, where a taller climber can clip the third bolt before risking it (be mindful of the rocks behind you). There ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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