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This is the shortest, slabbiest area at the New Side, and is a great place for people new to climbing or new to leading. It offers a small selection of unintimidating 5.6-5.8 routes, and gets sun all afternoon. Not that Mentmore is crowded, but there is never ANYBODY down at this end. The rock is typically sandy, with bits of varnish providing the best face holds.
From the parking lot, just follow the road and keep walking right along the base of the wall, passing the Corridor, the Wall of Dreams, and the Balcony. At the Balcony, leave the road and approach the base of the cliff. Find a rough trail that heads up and right along the wall. This will lead you up to the Open Face Wall. About 5 minutes walk from the parking lot.
Routes (from left to right)
Opie Ate for the Masses (5.7, 4 bolts)
5 Total Routes
Featured Route For (05) The Open Face Wall
This crack isn't very diverting for an experienced climber, as it's very low-angle on HUGE face holds (no jamming required). But it's perfect for a first trad lead. The rock is good for Mentmore, being varnished inside the crack, there are endless hands-free stances to fiddle nuts into the crack, and it's short. Run it out or sew it up, whatever you feel comfortable with....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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