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Love Shack Wall
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(0.5) Cayman Nights S 
(02) Throwiní the Hoola Girl S 
(05) Leapiní Lizzards S 

(05) Leapiní Lizzards 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jun 11, 2009

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Description 

Stick clip the first bolt and follow the obvious line of massive jugs. Start with a few difficult moves to the right of the first bolt then the climb continues straight up with massive moves and throws between good holds. As you get closer to the top of the climb the holds get smaller. After clipping the final bolt before the chains pull the tooth, and make your way through some thin moves to the anchors.

Location 

Easy to see as the jugs are ginormous! Go to the center of a nice belay platform and look up. Two climbs to the left of Hoola Girl.

Protection 

7 TITANIUM bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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By Alexander Blum
From: Charlotte, NC
Mar 8, 2015

Last route of the trip. Great fun - athletic and powerful. The low crux would be much tougher for a short person (12a?). One of my favorite routes of the grade, anywhere. The route goes into the shade around 4:30 in March, but the sun will be in your eyes until 5:30/6:00. Great route for a sunset send followed by some stargazing.

WARNING - DETAILED BETA BELOW


Crux is the first three or four moves to the huge jug at the lip, probably a V3/V4 boulder problem. Once you get the huge jug there is a full out no hands rest in the hueco (left kneebar, painful, pad recommended).

The upper face is peppered with smaller cruxes, but there are enough rests and good holds to keep the difficulty around 11- to the top.
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