03) Ramp Of Death
|1,242 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet, Grade V|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|Season: ||Summer or Winter|
|Submitted By: ||Dreez on Sep 14, 2009|
BETA PHOTO: Diagonals Left side. - LOOK OUT FOR BLOCK OF DEATH...
SPORTY!!!!! but very very cool ramp. Stay on the ramp to be pure, don't wus out and go to side ledges and climb up.
This use to be a bit runout, but by popular demand I bolt protected the crux. So maybe I should call it "Ramp Of Pain" now. I think this is one of the best 5.9's in the state.
This route reminds me a bit of Drilling Experience in Red Wing but a lot longer on the slab.
Left hand side of Diag wall, about 50 feet from left edge in diehedral. Dripping water at start.
If you want to climb the original spicy runout climb, then don't clip the 2nd last bolt by the drill hole. I use to protect the runout with 1 runner in the drill hole(the thicker the better) and/or 1 blue alien/Metolius cam
Equipped by Michael Endrizzi and Joe Mueller
|Comments on 03) Ramp Of Death
|By Shawn P. Tracy|
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.9+ R
Sorry Dreez, but this is a TRAD ROUTE that got retro-bolted on rappel without sussing out the best bolt placements adequately. What was once a safe trad lead is now a set-up, for aspiring 5.9 leaders, for a double ledge-hitting fall off the last bolt for approximately 25 feet if someone tries to sport climb it and fails (likely). Normally when bolts go in the route gets safer, however this one is a time bomb. Thanks for working on it, but please add one more bolt below the last bolt to protect the leg-breaking fall on 2 ledges and also scrub the face of the lichen and sand to provide quality smearing to make that last clip. If we're going to equip routes to promote climbing in SAndstone, why put in ones in this fashion which WILL lead to an evacuation and potential crag closure in time? Given the money and time it takes, please consider finishing the job (PS: this was a trad lead - if those bolts weren't glue-ins, I'd respectfully ask you to remove them).