BETA PHOTO: Diagonals Left side. - LOOK OUT FOR BLOCK OF DEATH...
SPORTY!!!!! but very very cool ramp. Stay on the ramp to be pure, don't wus out and go to side ledges and climb up.
LOOK OUT FOR LEDGE FALLS!!!! as most of climbs on this wall.
Rated R: If your belayer is 90lbs and sleeping Rated PG: If your belayer is 250lbs,drank coffee and wearing belay glasses
I will put in more bolts in 2014 time permits.
This used to be a bit runout, but by popular demand I bolt-protected the crux. So maybe I should call it "Ramp Of Pain" now. I think this is one of the best 5.9's in the state.
This route reminds me a bit of Drilling Experience in Red Wing but a lot longer on the slab.
Left hand side of Diag wall, about 50 feet from left edge in diehedral. Dripping water at start.
If you want to climb the original spicy runout climb, then don't clip the 2nd last bolt by the drill hole. I use to protect the runout with 1 runner in the drill hole(the thicker the better) and/or 1 blue alien/Metolius cam
Sorry Dreez, but this is a TRAD ROUTE that got retro-bolted on rappel without sussing out the best bolt placements adequately. What was once a safe trad lead is now a set-up, for aspiring 5.9 leaders, for a double ledge-hitting fall off the last bolt for approximately 25 feet if someone tries to sport climb it and fails (likely). Normally when bolts go in the route gets safer, however this one is a time bomb. Thanks for working on it, but please add one more bolt below the last bolt to protect the leg-breaking fall on 2 ledges and also scrub the face of the lichen and sand to provide quality smearing to make that last clip. If we're going to equip routes to promote climbing in SAndstone, why put in ones in this fashion which WILL lead to an evacuation and potential crag closure in time? Given the money and time it takes, please consider finishing the job (PS: this was a trad lead - if those bolts weren't glue-ins, I'd respectfully ask you to remove them).
Up to this point in my climbing experience I am basically a gym rat. I throw this out there not to tell my bio but to let you know this comment reflects my first outdoor sport climb attempt I have ever made and it was on this route. I have top roped outdoors a fair bit and done a ton of gym climbing over the years.
So anyway take the comments in that context if you wish.
I picked this route because I wanted to do a 5.9 rather than a 5.8 as my first sport climb which may have in hindsight been a mistake but it was a great learning experience.
This route technically is a pretty normal 5.9 except that is goes right to left at a 45 degree angle up the "ramp". However there are many clipping points where if you fall while clipping you are very likely to deck on ledges and one where you might get impaled on a pointy tree stump.
I bailed I believe after about the 5th clip because I didn't feel 100% confident I wouldn't fall on the next clip which would likely have meant a hard deck on a ledge after I had already gone over 3 such clips/ledges where if I fell while clipping I would have almost certainly decked on lower ledges.
After my climbing partner on-sighted this route I quickly finished it on top rope. Other than 1 foolish fall I went up the climb easily. So the technical grade and difficulty isn't bad but once again there are major ledge decking issues many times on this route if you were to fall while clipping.
Again I am new to sport leading but I wouldn't recommend this route to new sport leaders and if you do decide to risk this route. I don't think anyone could reasonably blame you if you felt it got too dicey and you bailed because the possible clipping falls are extremely dangerous.
The route is on the other hand extremely fun and if you can get past the big danger on the clips because you have no fear or you are that 100% confident in your ability to not fall on a 5.9 while clipping itís a great route. There may be some places to get a few cams in to lower your exposure in the lower ranges 1 inch and smaller.
If you do fall clipping I hope I don't read about you being hauled away in an ambulance with broken bones which is why I bailed on my lead attempt of this route.
By Kris Gorny Administrator May 28, 2013 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Eldon and Shawn -- thanks for your comments and the warning. I will forward this to Mike and see if he can comment.