Michael Schneider wrote:
I lived a short dog walk away from the best hot summer climbing in the Gunks for over ten years. I never shared my climbs or the area with anyone. My chalk marks were mostly on the sub 5.13 problems. The other chalk marks at the time were most likely "Bwana's" another climber who's home was close to the area. Some one, seeing my chalk, Bashed off the opening holds of climbs in the 1st chasm. That event and the land ownership issues that clearly still exist in frozendale, kept me from saying any thing about the best place on earth; free standing islands of quartzite, shady chasms, perfect landings, climbs of all types and grades even some cracks, (some 80ft lead able walls if you go far enough) It was paradise in all seasons, and it extends for 3 miles. When the truth about the slime that runs the town and county became undeniable, we sold the property, at a loss, squatters and all, and disappeared. I have waited for years to say anything for many reasons. As the next wave of climbers came along, acted like they were the first to find/climb this rock, (absolutely not ! thats the facts) tried to open it to public access, and as is telling from itís current unmentionable status, got it closed, I remained silent. Base /face this is on you gays What the phuk! the area is now what? ? (I will not call it what the most recent crew named it) Ö but is it open to climbing ? Will I get arrested, beaten, shot at, or shot if I stroll in the woods with a chalk bag ? (I AM aware that these are real risks here in Penciltucky). The miles of rock that Iím talking about is easy to find, been heralded as a world class bouldering area and if you know where to look can be seen on the web. Any bigger than me out there with a like mind might want to (open carry, fully loaded) take back Schneiders Rift.