Yosemite TR - Freerider: How I First Climbed El Capitan

The beautiful face of El Capitan

This past fall my partner Stein and I started working on a lifetime goal, a free ascent of El Capitan. We took a few steps before setting off with haul bags to climb all the pitches.


Looking up at the big stone on the Freeblast

Our first weekend we spent working on the Freeblast and on our second attempt had lead all pitches clean. Next trip we decided go after Freerider and learn how to survive on a big wall.


Stein belaying from El Cap Spire.

Over 4 days we climbed all the pitches with a mix of free, french free and aid. It was a great experience and we had a a good time.

The full Trip Report with videos and more photos can be found on my blog:

dreaminvertical.com/?p=2092

Also be sure to check out the trip report from my partner.

pullharder.org/2009/11/16/f…


Back on flat ground after an exciting trip up Freerider.

Enjoy!

- Luke

Awesome trip report man! I am somewhat obsessed with that route.

Josh,

I would love to go check out the leaning tower. I hear good things and steep climbing might be more my style.

I'm in the bay area and a weekend warrior so my time can be a bit limited. Definitly let me know if you want to partner up.

I'll also be up on Freerider in the spring. Maybe I'll see you or Nick up there! I'm sure a big free climbing party could foster a lot of motivation!

- Luke

Good job on your ascent. Don't feel bad about having to aid on your first ascent of El Cap, most people aid for the majority of every ascent on the Capt'n. You guys styled it.

You should look forward to going back to free climb the Perfect Corner, those are two of the best pitches on the route. The "stopperheads" have been fixed there intentionally for a while as it is about the only thing that goes in that section. I did hear of an aid climber cleaning all of them in a factor two onto that belay....That would suck eh?

So are you going to be the lucky guy who leads the Monster next time or is Stein willing to repeat his suffering? Being small and flexible is a benefit on that pitch, I am neither and found it to be the crux of the route for me.

I'll be trying the monster next and then I think we will try to both do it a few more times before the final push. Any specific advice? It seems silly/unfortunate that the monster is so hard. It also really seems to tear up one's shoulder.

The perfect corners really do look amazing. Good to know the fixed gear has been there a while. Some of the stoppers are much better than the others.

Quite a fun route! Can't wait for the spring!

- Luke

Next time I will bring two #6's. I will probably climb to the alcove speed style with my haulbags, go down and rest a few days, then climb the route in 3 days to decrease haul'n misery( we climbed it in 5 days last time). Our favorite bivy's were the Alcove and Round Table ledge, it would be great to just sleep there. A third line (6mm tag) will be used by the leader to bring up the haul line and hauling gear vs leading with the haul line. That's about I can think about....Have fun out there in the Spring.

I don't know if it get's any better than freeclimbing on the Captain.

Saved the best bivy for last...Round Table Ledge. Freerider, Yosemite.