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> Island of Lost Souls
Vivisection
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
FA: | Clay Watson, Dallen Ward |
Page Views: | 631 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | tenesmus on Nov 18, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Location
Middle of the long buttress on the south side of the island. This is a right facing dihedral one dihedral to the right of a striking serrated wave feature that curves to the left.
Description
Its a combination of everything you think it won't be when you first look at from the road. Mostly hands to fingers with a few really fun crack boulder problems to mantles. The bottom 10 feet is sandy as is the last 5 feet but everything in the middle is pretty good. Looks like a slabby 5.8 from the ground but its not.
We moved our packs to the side but not enough to feel good about cleaning the rocks off the ledge by the anchors. So if you get on this be sure to leave the bottom of the route clear and knock the debris off.
We moved our packs to the side but not enough to feel good about cleaning the rocks off the ledge by the anchors. So if you get on this be sure to leave the bottom of the route clear and knock the debris off.
Protection
We sewed this one up as its on the yellow Wingate (I think its wingate). 1-2 red camalots, 4 2.5 friends, 2-3 yellow metolius fat cams, 2-3 orange metolius fat cams, medium HB offsets, 4 long runners. 2 painted bolts with slings and a rap ring. Note, the slings say 2003 on them but were placed nov 06.
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