This area appears to be on national forest and blue ridge parkway land.
This south-west hillside is covered in hundreds of 5-30ft tall gneiss boulders. The views are amazing, and the approach is easy. Mostly untouched until recently....
The Good: This is a low grade south/west facing hillside with occasional wide gullies. It is covered in 100s of gneiss boulders. Most have great flat landings. To hike from bottom to top of the hill takes about 5-10 minutes so the approach is short as long as you know where you are going. The problems done thus far (approx 100 V0 - V8) are very good, unique lines. The problems often feature very subtle crimps, slimpers, and slopers, with bad feet, which lends its self to more difficult problems overall. Want a FA? Heaps of boulders exist for new routing for those who enjoy that.
The Bad: Poison Ivy, and ticks can be found if you get off the established boulders and trails, though I haven't found any yet this year...and I've been out a lot. Thus I see this as being on par with most southern crags : ie not good in the summer d/t heat and thick foliage, but great for fall, winter, early spring.
History: as far as I can tell vast majority of this stuff has not ever been climbed. The stuff right off the trail most likely has been done to some extent. I have seen some evidence of climbers (One spot of chalk under an overhang, one reinforced landing, nothing more), and have spoken with few who have climbed there as far back as 15yrs ago.
The Hill is generally located (uphill) from mile marker 87-89 on the BR Parkway. Nearby peaks sharp-top and flat top also have some climbing. But it is off limits within 100ft of the trail. Specific directions are poster under each area, but some poking around may be necessary your first visit. The hike in on the main trail takes about 20 min for Egg basket, 25 for Tipping, and 30 for upper limits. The faint climbers trail to the stones takes about 5-10 min.
From Roanoke: 45 min From Blacksburg 65 min From Lynchburg 40 min
we need to get a big crew with allot of pads! project back of the values boulder is so close to going, fallen off the v7 move at the very top a couple times, but the 28 foot fall puts a damper on things without having a nest to land in
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI Nov 16, 2013
Wow there are still so many new routes to do up here. Anyone getting after it?