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Out of Darkness Slabs
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Slab Sacrilege 
January Sun 
Out of Darkness 

Slab Sacrilege 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Roumpf and Alam - 1995
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Alam on Feb 26, 2008
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Dean working his way up Slab Sacrilege.

Description 

This slab route is located just right of Out of Darkness. See that description for additional details. If you have ever climbed in Yosemite or Squamish, calling this a "slab" is indeed sacriledge. Finishes on same hand crack as "Out of Darkness".

My ratings drift a bit as some of the crystals that were at the start of the route are no longer. The crux is between bolts 1 and 2 and is face climbing on small crystals and ledges.

There is no ground fall risk IF your belayer is paying attention and is near the base of the route. These bolts were placed on lead (with the 2nd and 3rd being placed by a very tall man 6'10" with a huge wing span) so maintain your balance during these clips.


Location 

Route D in the photo in "Out of Darkness" description.


Protection 

3 bolts and full rack - gear to 4"



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By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
Jan 7, 2012

Today, I'd say this remains in the 5.9 range if you take a fairly circuitous route to the first bolt. It is definitely in the 5.10 range if you try to keep a fairly direct line to the first bolt.

Half of my 60 meter rope reaches from the ground up to cliff edge at the point behind which folks normally build anchors.