* Santa Barbara Bouldering 

The following SB area bouldering problems need to be sorted left to right:

• Potter's Point

• Lizard's Mouth

Santa Barbara

Good work on getting out there and filming! You chose some of my favorite problems. In particular, way to go with the Fred Nicole line. Bernd, Will, and I kinda lost psyche on that thing, especially since it was waaay dirty when we first tried it. That, and we always tried to do it as the full traverse, from the sit-start of Fritz Bulge.

Also:

Soot Patrol: V7
Big Deal: V5

That's O11 speaking, and my opinion—for what it's worth.

Soot Patrol was a typo thanks for catching that. V7 for sure. I think I put V7 in the video...hopefully. I don't have a good opinion on big deal. So v5 sounds fine to me haha. Thanks for the input.

Well done vid.

FYI: She Had Nothing To Do With It goes up the left side of the arete. Hard and sort of scary last move.

And pull your pants up.

Thanks bob, could never figure out how that climb worked.....also can never find pants that fit. Haha

Nice video. I watched in HD and could see the nasty santa barbara black flies were present for some of those ascents. Well done.

Has anyone ever put up stuff on the opposite wall facing the Coffee Boulder on Sling Shot side? We met some guys there and put up some routes on the left and right face. The one in the pic is a smooth, fun line that I can't imagine someone not having done it. However, i don't have O11, so I can't check it out.

Anyway, if not, check it out, good warm up, gets your nerves going on something high, but not a sketchy top out. Starts right in front of man in picture, moves left of hole, straight up and slightly right from there.

Fungal Milk Tooth V2 Submitted By: Tom Shank on Oct 15, 2012

First things first, Tom:

Get O11.

Way to be psyched.

Alright, the mountain project app just isn't going to cut it, time to get the libretto and start singing. Thanks Andy.

Hey Guys,

I noticed that a bunch of SB Bouldering videos have been posted on this guy's website:
juiced-sbbouldering.blogspot.com

I watched a few and I realized that I have no idea where 90% of these things are. He refers to a "King's Landing" bouldering area which I think is nearby Lizard's Mouth.

Anybody have any info? I was thinking it might be nice to put up some of the problems on MP.

On a related note, it has been almost a decade since O11 came out and there has been some definite evolution in the SB bouldering scene (the fire in the Yard comes to mind). Has anyone had any impetus to write a new guidebook?

Cheers

Christ almighty, the layout and font on that blog would make Stevie Wonder cringe. I clicked straight through to his Vimeo page before I stuck a fork in my eyes.

On the O11 note: I will be sold out by the end of next year. Probably give it 6-8 months after that before they're gone from store bookshelves. There is a ZERO percent chance that I will either update or spend my hard earned dollars on another reprint. What that means is that someone needs to step up and start working on a new guide now, cause it's going to take you a lot longer than you think it will. Make it fun and make it good!

Both Kelly L. and I have amassed information and topos. Kelly leans towards the bouldering stuff. I have loads of info about local pebble-wrestling (new and old), and a good chunk of topos for obscure new routes. Bob is right: the workload is large, the rewards are few, and the labor must be out of pure love for the areas (or out of a severely deranged mental disposition).

Bob, you do realize you will be the de facto editor, right? Sorry.

Hey Andy,

Let me know if you need a hand organizing a new guide. I'd be stoked to help, and I'm always up for meandering around the SB mountains. Fair warning: I'm almost exclusively a boulderer nowadays.

What software are you using for the topos? I was thinking of making one for Potter's and so I might as well try to make it similar to what you have.

I've been psyched on the Potter's scene, and definitely seeing a lot of potential up there. Recently got my camera working again so I've been wandering around on off days gathering high res shots of various areas and boulders. While I don't think I have quite the knowledge or skills to put everything together, I'm amped up and willing to help out. My mapping skills are nil, but I'm fairly computer savvy and wouldn't have much trouble making a layout and putting everything together.

I'm pretty sure the King's Landing area he refers to in the videos is the slanted boulders just over the hill a ways when looking out from the mouth at Lizards Mouth. I know I've been to the one he refers to as 'The Blue Sky project' (though some holds had broken) and seen a few others in that area, though the approach to the further stuff isn't that fun.
(Edit: Here's a pictures posted on that Juicy site that gives of a view of 'Kings Landing': 1.bp.blogspot.com/-AFZlEmRz4hY/Tw5iPSJjpRI/AAAAAAAAAkA/PnxH7>>> I'm almost positive the overhang on the left side of the picture is the 'Blue Sky project', the traverse and dyno is on that big overhanging blob boulder in the center of the picture).

There's also a few good scattered problems at the cluster of boulders down below Lizards Mouth towards the ocean (can be seen in the picture above on the far right; not sure what people refer to that area as, but the approach trail is really good). And I've got a smattering of obscure problems and projects around at the Mouth and the Yard. Even a few bonus problems at Skofield Park of all places. Let me know how we can best pool our efforts and make somethin' happen. And like Bob says, make it fun. :)

Hodge podge ramble shamble SB pebble wrestling video:
Santa Barbara's Got Bouldering

West Camino Cielo could actually have it's own guidebook . Noir Boulders, Windermire Boulders, Monkey Boulders, Gorilla Farm, Road Kill Boulder, Obsevation Area, The Playground, The Brickyard,Jah Hole, Little Zion, Lion's Den, Lizard's Mouth, The Gift Area, Wild West Boulders, Hall of Shadows( King's Landing), Tequilla Sunset Area and the End of the World Area are all established areas with good problems. Unfortunetly, it would be a lot of work to actually make topos of the problems along with maps to get people to these areas. Many of the trails have changed or have been blocked by new vegetation growth over the years too, so what may look like new terrain, probably has had visitors in the past. Hopefully these areas will be publicized some time soon.

This might help with some of the confusion .

some of the New Areas near Lizard's Mouth Submitted By: Kelly Lindsay on May 14, 2013