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BETA PHOTO: Quagmire is the middle crack. A sustained 40m of 1...
This is a great finger crack and I am surprised to not already find it here. MP seems to not have caught on in Squamish, at least not the off the beaten track routes.
It is listed as 10c in the books, seems lots harder then Bulletheads east or Peasants route, more like the last Liquid Gold pitch so maybe 10d.( was considered 10b in the 1970/80's)
Maybe it is the approach. We dutifully rapped in a couple of years ago for the Grub St. Connection, and for this. I kept seeing climbers walk in from the north and south along the railway and am informed that the new rail management does not mind the climbers. So if that is true it would be nice to approach by Canadian Compromise, (still dirty )by hiking in from south or north side.
There is a sketchy flake mid way up that I presume has always been that way, just be careful.
A good way to climb out would be on Jacobs other Ladder which is a 5.8 dyke traverse just above which is described as being bold, and it is.
If you look at the Malamute photo on the header of this page taken from the log yard across the railway you will see an obvious white rock fall scar at the north end ( occurred in 1979) and the corner in the middle of this is Canadian Compromise and long splitter crack above is Quagmire. We rapped in with double ropes( at top of Besot and Flushed) and ended up at the very rusty bolts of Milkwood Forest. Rapped to base and fought our way up through moss past 2) 1/4" bolts and loose flake- not recommended.( original start of Porco on the first ascent.)
The McLane book recommends the Smithereens approach, I noticed bolts over there without hangers.
Rapping down Stone Cold would put you right above Quagmire if you wanted to rap.
It is 40- 45 Meter pitch so having many finger size is recommended. Double rack to 3", maybe 3 each in the 1/4"- 1/2" size or lots of nuts work too. Bolted belay on ledge at base and tree belay at top. There is a 2 bolt anchor about 10' north but I came up the OW finish which seems to make sense with a tree right there.I was not prepared for the OW, placed a #2 at start of it and layback up to top, could use a #4, but not really needed.I was informed by a local that the OW finish used to be full of vegetation and I guess that is why there is the bolted anchor off left at the top.
By Daniel Israel
From: Montreal, Quebec
Oct 23, 2015
Ahhh.... description sounds hard... we'll see how it goes....