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* NH Ice and Mixed Climbing

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Ace of Spades Crag 
Arethusa Falls 
Bear Mountain (near Newfound Lake) 
Cannon Ice Climbs 
Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs 
Dixville Notch 
Echo Crag Ice Climbs 
Flume, The 
Frankenstein Ice Climbs 
Garfield Crag 
Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)  
Holts Ledge 
Ice and Mixed Bouldering 
Kinsman Notch 
Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena 
Mahoosuc Notch 
Mount Moosilauke 
Mount Washington & Presidentials (Adams, Jeff. etc) 
Mt Major 
Mt. Avalon 
Mt. Huntington (Ice)  
Mt. Lafayette 
Mt. Lincoln 
Mt. Lowell 
Mt. Tom  
Mt. Webster 
Mt. Willard (Ice)  
Mt. Willey 
Newfound Lake 
Oliverian Notch 
Painted Walls Ice Climbs 
Pawtuckaway 
Polar Caves (CLOSED) 
Rainbow Slabs - Winter Ice 
Rumney Ice Climbs 
Stonehouse Pond 
Tenny Mountain 
Texaco Amphitheater 
Trollville (Duckshead) 
West Rattlesnake 
Wilderness Woods  
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Kingdom Trails: Darling Hill Loop
A nice introduction to the Kingdom Trails Darling Hill side in East Burke. Near West Burke village, Vermont
White School
A nice, scenic trail following the Passumpsic River towards town. Near West Burke village, Vermont
J-Bar
A fast, semi-technical downhill through the woods on Burke Mountain. Near Lyndonville village, Vermont
Kingdom Trails: Mountainside Loop
A great loop on the mountainside of the Kingdom Trails with fantastic downhills and big climbing. Near West Burke village, Vermont
Moose Alley
An awesome downhill that takes you from the mountain-side to the White School area of Kingdom Trails Near West Burke village, Vermont
Tent Boulder Trail
Awesome trail features make a great woods ride. Near Berlin, New Hampshire
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

* NH Ice and Mixed Climbing  


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Location: 44.271, -71.3055 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 928,441
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008
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1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

Description 

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. Its easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.

Getting There 

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

258 Total Routes

['4 Stars',31],['3 Stars',119],['2 Stars',72],['1 Star',31],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing:
Dropline   WI5     Ice   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Greens Chasm   WI3 M1-2     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 2500'   Mt. Webster
Pegasus Rock Finish   WI3 M3     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Gully 1   WI4     Ice, 1 pitch, 150'   Mt. Willard (Ice) : South Face - Lower
Odell's Gully   WI2-3     Ice, Alpine, 600'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine
Geographic Factor   WI5     Ice   Rumney Ice Climbs : Hinterlands
Great Gully   WI2 Mod. Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1300'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : King Ravine (Mt. Adams)
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Remission NEI 5+   WI5+ M5     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Shoestring Gully   WI2     Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches   Mt. Webster
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Repentance   WI5 M4-5     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Damnation Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 1000'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Lower
Black Dike   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Cannon Ice Climbs
Browse More Classics in * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing

Featured Route For * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing
Standard Route. The cave with bolts can be seen to...

Standard Route WI3+  NH : * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing : ... : Standard Route Area
An incredible-looking blob of cool blue ice. Due to its size, Standard Route has plenty of options - and all seem fun. The line of least resistance goes at WI3 but some of the bulges may be steep and harder, if tackled straight on. The only downside to this awesome climb is the crowds.Most popular variation of the Standard climbs to the right, through the right-side cave with bolts. Setting a belay in the cave, although interesting, results in 3 instead of 2 pitches, with some awkward leading ju...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Mt. Washington
Mt. Washington
1982 North Conway Mt Rescue team on Mt Washington ...
1982 North Conway Mt Rescue team on Mt Washington ...
New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...
New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...
Rumney ice
Rumney ice
Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...
Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...
Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch

Comments on * NH Ice and Mixed Climbing Add Comment
Show which comments
By reddirt
Mar 19, 2008
NH is a state where people actually drive the speed limit (and rarely over).

They've got a lot of good ice, and even more a$$hole cops... so watch your speed.

"Live free or die" my a$$!
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 20, 2008
Also, "Live free or die, unless that involves drinking at a bar after midnight."

Funny how such an oppressive place can have such Libertarian motto...
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Oct 24, 2009
Check out this cool video: dailymotion.com/video/x4rcaj_q...

It shows climbs at Frankenstein, Willoughby, Cathedral Ledge, and Pont Rouge
By JohnnyG
Jan 9, 2012
What's up with all the hating on NH from the first two posters? This place is wicked awesome.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jan 9, 2012
I dunno- some pretty fine climbers have come outta here . You climb hard here and you'll be good anywhere.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jan 27, 2013
New Hampshire allows you to live free in as conservative a manner as you please.
By nick manning
From: superior,az
Jan 27, 2013
NH is rad, F the haters

RUMNEY
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Feb 7, 2013
The chosen, Frozen
By Eli Buzzell
From: Rumney
Feb 27, 2015
Sounds like everyone is just jealous of our motto, which is better than all others.
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