Mother Psycho's Little Darlins 5.12a
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | 1980's |
| Season: | any (not mid summer) |
| Submitted By: | CALEB ANDERSON on Oct 22, 2011 |
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Derek, finishing the last crux.
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Description Ascends the steep, very thin face to the right of "Green Banana Jam". Climb on thin edges and thin side-pulls for 25' until you get a good rest, you'll want to throw a cam or two before pulling onto the upper headwall. Continue up through five bolts of amazing but technical face moves.
Location Easy to locate, just look up. It is the bolted line Right of Banana Jam Crack
Protection Friends and quickdraws (7-bolts)
Superstar on the first thin section.
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| Comments on Mother Psycho's Little Darlins |
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By CALEB ANDERSON
Oct 22, 2011
| Followed this today after Derek led it up. Wonderful movement throughout. |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2011
| Wow guys! Nice work! :) |
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Nov 29, 2011
| ! Thanks Geir , Same goes to you on your recent FAs. |
By Robert Flore
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.12a
| Yeah, Derek and Caleb, congrats on getting up this one! Mother Psycho is a tough lead! About 1992 I watched two "elite level" french climbers thrash themselves into exhaustion before they finally got it.
Bob Flaugher and Bill Clinch put this one up in March of 1990. I think Scot Ayers did this one a few months later and gave it an 11+ rating, but I think 12a is closer. At least two stars, and I'd give it three myself. |
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