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 ADVANCED
Green Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mother Ps ycho's Little Darlins T,S 
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 
Blade Runner S,TR 
David and Goliath T,S 
Fathers Dazed T 
Grass is Greener..., The S 
Green Banana Jam T 
Green Eggs And Cams T 
Greenhorn S 
Here and Gone T 
Hooterville T 
Josh and Dave's Route T 
Jump for Joyce T 
Krack a Tack T,TR 
Little Jack Corner T 
Missing in Action T 
Missing the Action T 
Monkey Business T,TR 
My Left Foot T,TR 
No Stars T,S 
Pettycoat Junction S 
Rock Candy T 
Samson and Dalieback T 
Time Warp T 
Toy Roof T,S 
Wits End T 
Wrench Warfare 
Wrist Rocket S 
Yurt Monkey S 
Unsorted Routes:

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 1980's
Season: any (not mid summer)
Page Views: 714
Submitted By: CALEB ANDERSON on Oct 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Good look at the whole line.

Description 

Ascends the steep, very thin face to the right of "Green Banana Jam". Climb on thin edges and thin side-pulls for 25' until you get a good rest, you'll want to throw a cam or two before pulling onto the upper headwall. Continue up through five bolts of amazing but technical face moves.

Location 

Easy to locate, just look up. It is the bolted line Right of Banana Jam Crack

Protection 

Friends and quickdraws (7-bolts)


Photos of Mother Psycho's Little Darlins Slideshow Add Photo
Derek, finishing the last crux.
Derek, finishing the last crux.
Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hangdog for a while).
Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hang...
Superstar on the first thin section.
Superstar on the first thin section.

Comments on Mother Psycho's Little Darlins Add Comment
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By CALEB ANDERSON
Oct 22, 2011

Followed this today after Derek led it up. Wonderful movement throughout.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Wow guys! Nice work! :)
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Nov 29, 2011

! Thanks Geir , Same goes to you on your recent FAs.
By Robert Flore
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yeah, Derek and Caleb, congrats on getting up this one! Mother Psycho is a tough lead! About 1992 I watched two "elite level" french climbers thrash themselves into exhaustion before they finally got it.

Bob Flaugher and Bill Clinch put this one up in March of 1990. I think Scot Ayers did this one a few months later and gave it an 11+ rating, but I think 12a is closer. At least two stars, and I'd give it three myself.
By Jake Croft
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 11, 2014

This was my first 5.12 send, and incidentally first fall on gear back sometime in early 2013. Anyways I remember it being an awesome route, definitely worth doing
Also I vaguely remember the rope almost getting stuck after lowering off it so be careful as I think the anchors ontop of the ledge