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Meadow Brook Slabs
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Kindred Spirits  
Regurgitation 

Kindred Spirits  

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 370', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chuck Woodman
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Christina Callaghan on Jul 2, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch of the route.

Description 

1. Gain a ledge, then follow a line of bolts up a smooth face (5.10a) to a good stance. Continue left past a lichen strip, then go straight up on easier rock to a hanging belay at a small tree on the left. 90', 5.10a
2. Move right along a ramp, plug in a small cam, and overcome a steep wall protected by bolts (5.10c). Nice moves on perfect granite lead past bolts to a horizontal crack and overlap. Two more bolts lead over another steep section (5.9) to a great ledge. After a 5.7 move, scramble up to a belay at a large pine. 175', 5.10c
3. Low angle face climbing leads straight up to a bolt at 40'. Follow a shallow groove with pockets to the top and a tree belay. Take a few moments to relax and enjoy the scenery. The view is one of the best in the mountains. 110', 5.6

Descent: 3 rappels lead to the ground. First, rap back down to the pine. The next rap station is 160' straight down. The final rap ends at the start of the route.


Location 

This route heads up the tallest portion of the slab, starting just right of a boulder leaning against the cliff that forms a cave. GPS 44.02739, -071.40877


Protection 

A light rack of about 8 draws and a couple of cams to 1" will suffice.



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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jun 22, 2010

Here is what Chuck posted on NEClimbs.com, in case you couldn't find it directly:
"Meadow Brook Slab

Kindred Spirits II 5.10c

This fine route is located near the Kancamagus Highway, on the Meadow Brook Slab, the clean, south facing wall 1/4 mile west of Greenís Cliff. It offers excellent face climbing, spectacular views and plenty of solitude- a wonderful wilderness adventure and climbing comparable to the best on Whitehorse. It's not exactly new, but it's never been documented anywhere.

The approach is lengthy but not as arduous as for Greenís Cliff. A combination of mountain biking and hiking is the best option and goes as follows. Park at a gated logging road .7 miles east of Sabbaday Falls along the Kanc. Bike west for a couple hundred feet, then head right into the woods on a trail marked by boulders at the start. Cross the Swift River (easy) and follow a gravel road for about 2 miles. At a clearing, bear left on another road, cross over 2 wooden bridges, and in 1/4 mile, head right into an open yard. Ride through the yard, drop your bike, and walk uphill along a rough log road thru clearcuts for 10 minutes. When the road ends, follow a faint trail to the base of the cliff. Total time for the approach is one hour.

To compensate for the rather lengthy approach, a light rack of about 8 draws and a couple of cams to 1" will suffice. Sandals are helpful for the river crossing.

1. Gain a ledge, then follow a line of bolts up a smooth face (5.10a) to a good stance. Continue left past a lichen strip, then go straight up on easier rock to a hanging belay at a small tree on the left. 90', 5.10a
2. Move right along a ramp, plug in a small cam, and overcome a steep wall protected by bolts (5.10c). Nice moves on perfect granite lead past bolts to a horizontal crack and overlap. Two more bolts lead over another steep section (5.9) to a great ledge. After a 5.7 move, scramble up to a belay at a large pine. 175', 5.10c
3. Low angle face climbing leads straight up to a bolt at 40'. Follow a shallow groove with pockets to the top and a tree belay. Take a few moments to relax and enjoy the scenery. The view is one of the best in the mountains. 110', 5.6

Descent: 3 rappels lead to the ground. First, rap back down to the pine. The next rap station is 160' straight down. The final rap ends at the start of the route.

History: Chuck Woodman initially scoped the route in the mid eighties on the way into Greenís Cliff, but didnít return til the fall of 2002. The first ascent was accomplished rope solo by Woodman. All bolts were hand drilled on the lead, some while hanging from hooks."

It looks like we need to find out from him if this is the same route, then we can make it's own heading. There are some pictures with his posting in NEClimbs

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 2, 2010

That is some heinous "1/4 mile" between Meadow Brook and Green's, lol. I don't recommend the bushwhack between the 2 cliffs unless you have a light pack and are into exploring. Expect heavy regrowth, downed trees and stumbling around. Unless there is a skidder trail that I missed, don't approach Green's via Meadow Brook if you're planning on actually climbing.

By cwoodman
From: Lincoln, NH
Aug 19, 2010

Hi Mark,
Tho I haven't been in to Meadowbrook Slab in a few years, I still think the approach I descibe is the best one- although it seems complicated- and the mountain biking is nice. The last part- after ditching your bike at the log yard- is probably becoming overgrown again. If so, it could require quite a bit of thrashing. If you find it, the climbing is stellar, kind of like Interloper on Whitehorse.
Following along the right side of Meadowbrook, as it diagonals up and right, Green's Cliff is fairly easily reached. It's not that far and it's not too difficult IMHO. It's all a hike tho.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 10, 2012

I went exploring and found this today. Here are the coordinates: 44.02739, -071.40877
Since it has had little traffic, the very bottom, getting up to the first bolt is over grown, but it looks like really good rock above. I would suggest finding a long stick and stick clipping, so you can safely garden before getting to the clean holds.

The approach after the nice, easy 30 min bike ride is pretty bad, requiring wading through thick berry bushes and then a steep shwack up to the cliff, but not super long. The base of the cliff may bring disappointment if you are used to a cliff like Whitehorse, that has been cleaned by the traffic of thousands of people, but looking down from the top, the rock looks like very high quality.

If you are looking to get to Green's Main cliff, go back down and ride around to the other approach. It is much less arduous now than the bushwhack since the steep sections are shorter and there is a good climber's trail beaten in.

By Aaron R
Sep 11, 2012

Did you happen to look at Regurgitation when you were out there? I remembered thinking a strong climber might be able to do a direct start into the dihedral instead of traversing in from the left.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 1, 2014

I did, but it kind of reminded me of a Mayan temple; a cool feature but heavily overgrown. Adventure!