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 ADVANCED
Stonehouse Pond
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Geezer Pleaser T 
Amazing Schlingazi, The T,S 
Bald Man In A Boat S 
Barrington Hot Pocket S 
barrington levy TR 
BBB route, The T,S 
Day After My Birthday ( is not my birthday mum), The S 
Desperation T,S 
Down By Law S 
Flying Squirrel aka The Diagonal T,S 
Hymie's Last Stand aka Karin's Route T,S 
Joke Book T 
Luna S 
Moe Howard Died For Our Sins S 
Nose , The T 
Roost, The T,TR 
Sicilian Olympics S 
Trundle Drunk Express T 

Geezer Pleaser 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a R

   
Type:  Trad, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Joe Terravecchia, Will Carey. Nov 2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,070
Submitted By: Joe Terravecchia on Dec 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Joe T at the horizontal just above the crux.

Description 

Great climbing and one of the most difficult all gear protected routes in New England. The meat of the climb is a V9ish boulder problem at mid height involving a series of very powerful opposing side pulls to either a long low percentage dyno ( Will C) or several more difficult face moves (Joe T) to the horizontal. Blow the last bit before the horizontal and you'll take a 25' - 30' lob. If the small cam pulls, a bomber offset nut will keep you off the ground.
The route tops out so the anchors are set back from the edge. Bring 6' slings if intending to TR.

Location 

Between the BBB route and Moe Howard Died For Our Sins.
Right facing corner and flakes to steep face.

Protection 

Small to medium cams and a #9 HB or DMM offset nut.
All gear was placed free and on lead.

DO NOT PLACE ANY PINS OR FIX ANY GEAR ON THIS ROUTE.


Photos of Geezer Pleaser Slideshow Add Photo
Will, one move shy of a redpoint.
Will, one move shy of a redpoint.
Will C midway through the crux.
Will C midway through the crux.
Will on the  thin face at the top.
Will on the thin face at the top.
The geezer falling  on the good cams at the  1st horizontal.
The geezer falling on the good cams at the 1st h...
We used a prototype .3  X4  Camalot to protect the crux.  A yellow C3 or hybrid green/yellow Alien would also work. Falls on the C3  have chipped off the right side of the pod.
We used a prototype .3 X4 Camalot to protect the...

Comments on Geezer Pleaser Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 17, 2013
By jason conway
Dec 24, 2012

Nice work Joe and Will!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 24, 2012

Awesome guys !!!! A gear 5.14 is next ??? I know of a couple...
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 24, 2012

very impressive guys.
By Unassigned User
Dec 24, 2012

great work guys, inspiring...
By Joe Terravecchia
Dec 25, 2012

Thanks guys. Here's a short video clip of a few attempts one day in November.
You've gotta love the audio!


youtu.be/vB92X3Bt5pM
By Unassigned User
Dec 26, 2012

that video was great! I was NOT expecting that!
By Jason Denver
Dec 26, 2012

Really awesome Joe. Like the video.
By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Dec 27, 2012

Wow! Almost spilled my coffee watching that video. Nice job!
By WillCarey
Dec 27, 2012
rating: 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R

Oh Joe you are too kind. While I would love to take credit, the only free ascent so far of this route is by Joe. The closest I got was about 2 inches from the finishing hold. Next season.
By Jon Marek
From: SLC
Jan 12, 2013

Awesome video link.
By chinos
Jan 17, 2013

right on Joe!