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? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab aka Stanley Slab or Stanley Road or Frontage River Road

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Don't know any names, who bolted this? 
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? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab aka Stanley Slab or Stanley Road or Frontage River Road 


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Elevation: 7,600'
Lat, Long: 39.7547, -105.558 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,876
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jun 6, 2002
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Anchors and fixed rope right of the rightmost 11a,...

Description 

This is a combination of entries to reduce duplication in the database.

This is a little, north-facing slab that attracts your eye as you drive by on I-70. I'm sure it has a name, but I don't know it. Perhaps it's even in your database, but I can't find it. Perhaps you can tell us what its name is. It is located very close to exit 238 off I-70 across Clear Creek only 2 minutes from the road. I've often wondered about it. We checked it out and there are lo and behold 3 sport routes, 1 TR anchor and room for perhaps another couple routes.

It is steeper than it looks. It has a sort of granite-quartzite feel to it with wonderfully crisp edges. It still may shed a few holds with traffic. I popped off 1 foot hold and 1 hand hold.

A. The left route has 9 (or 10) bolts with a 2 bolt anchor with a nest of webbing and a biner & link to rap. It is 30m. A 50m rope leaves a partner at the 2nd bolt. 5.9+ & slightly devious.

B. The center route is 10 bolts long and starts next to a Dept. of Highways little plaque. It is sustained and very interesting. It is at times hard to decipher it. It goes to a 2 bolt Fixe/rap ring anchor. 2 cruxes, 1 at the start and another 2/3 the way up. 25m. 5.10b.

C. The right route is 9 bolts long and starts with a left or right (easier) beginning. It sports 2 cruxes. 1st is at the 3rd bolt. The 2nd is at the 6th bolt. Good edges. The last bolt does not currently have a hanger. A wire or something might be useful to loop the bolt. It shares the 2 bolt Fixe/rap ring anchor. 5.11a IMHO.

D. TR.

Addendum: I didn't enter the routes separately, since I had no info on the names, FA, etc. Please add the routes if you have more info. Thanks!

There is a TR anchor to the right. Didn't try that.

There is a fixed rope up a gully to the right.

These may be accessible from above for TRs.

I-70 road noise is inescapable.

Per Harald Harb: This is a shady face on south side of road, 5 minute access climb. Three bolted climbs. The climb on the east of the slab is a 5.9+. Middle climb is 5.10a and right or west most climb is rated 5.11, but feels more like CC canyon 5.10c or d. I'm not aware of names for the climbs.

The first clips on both the rightmost climbs, 5.10 and 5.11 are high and a bad ground fall is a possibility, unless your climbing grade is well above 5.11. Stick clip or bring your own pro. The climbs are really fun, great if you are a local climber looking for an after work climbing session.


Getting There 

I-70 west of Denver. 2 approaches are possible.

You can get off in Idaho Springs and get on Colorado Blvd (North of the highway) which is the main street. Drive west and cross under the highway and then south of Clear Creek. Drive just west of exit 238 and find this slab just off the road to the south.

You can get off at the Dumont exit and cross under the highway, across Clear Creek and then back east a couple miles until you are just across from where Fall River Rd veers off N towards St. Mary's Glacier.

Hike up a loose scree path 2 minutes at most to its base.

Per Harald Harb: take the frontage road west from Idaho Springs. About 2 miles west across from where Fall River comes into Clear Creek is a flat reddish slab with three routes. Park just up or down from the crag, no parking below the climbing area. Be aware this area has rock fall, so park in a safe area and walk a few minutes more to be safe.

Per Matt Gillham: the wall is 0.02 miles north of Trail Creek Road. goo.gl/maps/IRfO.


L->R: 

A. N/A, 9+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Don't know any names, who bolted this?, 10, 1p, 100', bolts.
C. Unknown, 11-, 1p, 100', bolts.
D. TR.


2 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab aka Stanley Slab or Stanley Road or Frontage River Road
View from the road.

Don't know any names, who bolted this? 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  CO : Dumont vicinity : ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab a...
This is East of the rockfall barriers right on Clear Creek, on Stanley Road, 2 miles west of Idaho Springs. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab aka Stanley Slab or Stanley Road or Frontage River Road Slideshow Add Photo
3 climbs all bolted, good rock, face climbing, shaded. The leftmost route is 5.9, the middle is 5.10a, and the right is 5.11a.
BETA PHOTO: 3 climbs all bolted, good rock, face climbing, sha...
Caleb on the 5.9, on the Fall River Road Slab.
BETA PHOTO: Caleb on the 5.9, on the Fall River Road Slab.
Leftmost anchor above the dihedral.
Leftmost anchor above the dihedral.
Comments on ? Fall River Rd/I-70 slab aka Stanley Slab or Stanley Road or Frontage River Road Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 20, 2013
By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Aug 19, 2002

The left route is pretty stout for a 9+ sport climb IHMO. Be ready for some thin moves above the bolts.... There didnt seem to be any good options for setting up a TR on the two routes to the right. Soloed the gully with the fixed rope to find that it was attached to a nice tree. Still, there would be an exposed, unprotected traverse from the top to the anchors (unless I missed something?). Didn't see any options to TR the 9. However, if scrambling around on top, be especially careful for loose rocks because of the road directly below you.... Nice routes!

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 1, 2009

I wonder if it is the same as this entry?

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
May 3, 2009

This may well be the same crag, if anyone knows who put up the climbs or their names, it would be helpful. It is worth a visit. Their is some conflicting information on the other submission. The 5.11 (furthest to the west route) start is rather unprotected, if you climb the direct route under the bolts. Hard off balance beginning before the first clip.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Aug 26, 2011

Leo, this is not the same as the Fall River post. This crag is on the frontage road across the river, east of the sharp turn on Stanley Rd., across the highway from where Fall River Rd. comes out at I-70.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 27, 2011

Harold, this sounds like the exact same crag as what I had called the Fall River Rd. crag. Both are on the Frontage Rd. across the river from I-70. Both have a 9+, 10, and 11- (L->R). Each has bolts. Someone else posted a photo from somewhere else on that page, but it doesn't belong there (so I moved it). The locations are nearly identical, ~2 miles west of Idaho Springs, right across the creek from I-70, facing north. We should merge these pages.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 27, 2011

Is this that prominent slab on the South side of I-70 right at a big bend?

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 15, 2011

Does this crag really belong in the Dumont description? Is it perhaps (?) better affiliated with Idaho Springs or the I-70 corridor?

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 16, 2011

Richard, good point. This crag lies between Dumont and Idaho Springs. It was under the Idaho Springs area, however, currently the Idaho Springs area has Swissco and the alpine-esque feel that this crag does not. We could move it back.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 17, 2011

Simple test: if you drove by, saw the crag, tried to look it up, where would you look?

By Josh Schutz
From: Silverthorne, Colorado
Jun 7, 2012

Drive ~2 miles up the frontage road from Idaho Springs. About 100 yards before the rock fall fence on your left, you will see a small pullout.

By Matt Gillham
From: arvada, co
Jun 11, 2012

Wall is 0.02 miles north of Trail Creek Road. goo.gl/maps/IRfO

70m rope recommended for the 5.9 climb.

Bring ~4' slings for your anchor rig to get the anchor point over a rock ledge/lip just under the chains.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Oct 15, 2012

Personal opinion: We hit this crag on the way back from the Mill Creek Crag. We found the climbing to be okay, not remarkable. However, the noise of the highway on a Sunday afternoon was more than annoying. Drivers seem to think that if they see a climber there arises some necessity to set off a series of horn blasts. Not exactly serene, at least by conrast to Mill Creek, which really is a nice setting.

By TylerVaughan
From: Glenwood Springs, Colorado
Jan 20, 2013

This slab is 3 miles from Idaho Springs. I thought the 9+ was quality and definitely worth checking out these road side climbs.