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> N America
> Mexico
> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Sur (S Face)
> Bernalina Wall
Via del Padre
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 25
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Routes in Bernalina Wall
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Asuntos Exteriores T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Bernalina S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Horizonte de Estrellas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Servicio Exterior S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Via del Padre S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,054 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 23, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Ricardo Orozco |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Fun face climbing on great rock. A steeper angle than 'Bernalina' makes it feel more sporty, but it's still well under vertical, with more hand and footholds than you know what to do with.
Roughly:
Pitch 1. ~5.8 to anchors. (i estimate that all three first pitches are more than 30m, but are definitely not rope-stretchers)
Pitch 2. ~5.9 to anchors
Pitch 3. ~5.9 to anchors on shoulder with lots of bolts.
Pitch 4. diagonal left to join the 4th class pitch on bernalina (up a little ways on pitch 3 of bernalina as i describe it). continue up dirty 4th class ramp to ledge with anchors. see bernalina beta for rest of the (5.6ish) climbing.
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