El Lado Oscuro de la Luna  5.9

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Type:  Sport, 500 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Alfredo Velázquez, R. Becerril Submitted By:  Anthony Anagnostou on Dec 24, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

leon islas following one of the first three pitche...

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Description 

Fun face climbing on great rock. A steeper angle than 'Bernalina' makes it feel more sporty, but it's still well under vertical, with more hand and footholds than you know what to do with. The mexican beta (xpmexico.com) claims 5.10a, which it may be, but i didn't think it was quite that burly. Other opinions would be greatly appreciated, as all my grades are only estimates. It might be even easier than 5.9, but im not comfortable downgrading the thing two grades.

Roughly:

Pitch 1. ~5.8 to anchors. (i estimate that all three first pitches are more than 30m, but are definitely not rope-stretchers)
Pitch 2. ~5.9 to anchors
Pitch 3. ~5.9 to anchors on shoulder with lots of bolts.
Pitch 4. diagonal left to join the 4th class pitch on bernalina (up a little ways on pitch 3 of bernalina as i describe it). continue up dirty 4th class ramp to ledge with anchors. see bernalina beta for rest of the (5.6ish) climbing.

Location 

As far as I can tell, "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna" is the second bolted line up from where the trail meets the rock, one line to the right of "Bernalina".

Protection 

Red hangers with 3/8" and occasionally 1/2" bolts. Tightly bolted near the ground, and becoming more spaced during the second and third pitches. 14 draws should be fine, and possibly less.

Photos of El Lado Oscuro de la Luna Slideshow

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Peña de Bernal

2nd Pitch