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DescriptionThis area has some of the strongest climbs in Grayson. The bouldering here is mostly overhanging and powerful with small crimp moves and dynamic link-ups. The "A.V.P" boulder has tons of problems with grades to suit any climber. there are three other boulders on the hill that make up the "A.V.P" area. Getting ThereThe best way to describe how to reach the Boneyard & A.V.P area is if you are coming through Damascus, or from Bristol or Asheville; turn into the park and make a u-turn. turn back out of the park back toward the direction you came. as you pass the first house on your left that has a shed/building on the side of the road, and you will also notice a big boulder on the right across from the house's drive way that was cut in half for the road to be built (the house you pass is the first, and only house near the road for a long distance, so there should be no confusion on this). as soon as you pass this house start paying attention and as you round the gentle curve in the road, look for a small pull off on your left which is before the oncoming guardrail. park here. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for A.V.P. Boulders:
Alley Way V0 Boulder, 10 feet Hero Boulder
blockade V1+ Boulder, 12 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Pocket Shot V1-2 Boulder, 8 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Volatile V3 Boulder, 12 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Thats My Money V4 Boulder, 7 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Distance Dyno V4 Boulder, 9 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Front Man (stand start) V4 Boulder, 18 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Ripley Lip Traverse V4-5 Boulder, 40 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Casual Tees'. V5 Boulder, 15 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Front Man V5 Boulder A.V.P. Boulder
Mothership V6 Boulder, 10 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Lullabies For Little Criminals V6 Boulder, 10 feet Hero Boulder
Crimptonite V6 Boulder, 10 feet Hero Boulder
Finger Confusion V7+ Boulder Hero Boulder
Parlier's Problem V8 Boulder, 15 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Sigourney Weaver V9 Boulder, 10 feet A.V.P. Boulder
Lifestyles V9 Boulder A.V.P. Boulder
Featured Route For A.V.P. Boulders
Casual Tees'. V5 VA : Grayson Highlands State Par... : ... : A.V.P. Boulder
Sit start at the very bottom of the overhang in a deep, awkward, left-facing slot. make a big move up and left to a sharp, shallow crimp and match it. throw up and left again to a smaller, sharp crimp with your left hand, and then throw right with your right hand to a higher crimp (don't use the flake with the marked x, its loose).from these crimps, make a longer dynamic move overhead to a deep, right facing slot that is just below the lip, and then move the other hand to the deep slot adjacent ...[more] Browse More Classics in VA
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