-

-

That's terrible! Hope she recovers well.

Hoping for a quick recovery. Wonder if it was on the 3rd pitch and she fell trying to get past the missing bolts. Ancient Art was a mess when we were hiking down from Kingfisher a few days ago. People rappelling over people leading, crowds at the belays.

Brian C. wrote:Hoping for a quick recovery. Wonder if it was on the 3rd pitch and she fell trying to get past the missing bolts. Ancient Art was a mess when we were hiking down from Kingfisher a few days ago. People rappelling over people leading, crowds at the belays.

Thankyou VISA!

josh

J. Thompson wrote: Thankyou VISA! josh

Citi... not Visa ;)

Wow, that's a bad place to fall. I was out there 2 weeks ago and got pretty nervous getting to that bolt with no pro and a lot of things to hit on the way down.

Thank God she is alive and here's hoping she recovers well.

Never climbed there and I know nothing about this climb. Hope the bolt chopper is pleased with himself....good job dude!!

Mtnfly wrote:Never climbed there and I know nothing about this climb. Hope the bolt chopper is pleased with himself....good job dude!!

the bolt could have come out on its own. I haven't done ancient art but I first saw it flipping through canyon country climbs as a little kid, it sucks that it has become so popular, you have to expect more stuff like this in the coming years. Sounds like it was a bad place to fall, maybe she shouldn't have been on the route in the first place, leave the desert for the guys(or girls) who can run it out without coming off.

Keenan Waeschle wrote: the bolt could have come out on its own. I haven't done ancient art but I first saw it flipping through canyon country climbs as a little kid, it sucks that it has become so popular, you have to expect more stuff like this in the coming years. Sounds like it was a bad place to fall, maybe she shouldn't have been on the route in the first place, leave the desert for the guys(or girls) who can run it out without coming off.

I doubt it came out on its own as the first bolt on the first bolted section went missing at the same time.

Keenan Waeschle wrote: leave the desert for the guys(or girls) who can run it out without coming off.

Ok... if we leave the desert for those who like to run it out, can I have Tuolumne....

This is not a chopped bolt issue. So spewers should stick to sport climbing instead of spewing. Geez.

That position is terrifying. Back when the first bolt on the third pitch was in place, it was a bit unnerving getting to it.

You can get a #4 camalot right off the belay, but its junk. We convinced a friend that it was bomber just so he'd get to that first bolt, and when it popped free from rope movement while he was clipping, we laughed it off.

A fall there would be unpleasant.

For the record, even with the missing bolts, this is still a well protected climb, and I don't remember clipping the now first bolts on either the first or third pitch to be a problem. With that being said, its a bit of a bummer that the bolts are gone, as evidenced by this accident.

It sounds like it was some bad luck, and if she had made it to the third pitch that at least means she was able enough to climb the first crux so don't try and dismiss this as "just some gaper where she shouldn't have been."

I last climbed Ancient Art 10 years ago so forgive my ignorance, but why exactly are the bolts gone?

About 3 years ago the bolts were replaced with half inch stainless 5 pieces... two of them were subsequently removed by someone.

No one knows why and the chicken-shit who did it won't say why. I've never understood how someone could feel so strongly that they do something like that, but then be so cowardly about their actions that they won't say they did it and say why. True coward. I'm sure he thinks he's brave because he can climb a moderate route he's done 25 times with fewer pieces of gear than someone else.

I'm not a lawyer, but it brings up an interesting issue? What responsibility does a bolt chopper own? What if someone tampered with bolts so they would fail, and someone was hurt? Would they not be prosecuted? Take it out of the rock climbing world, if someone loosened all the bolts on a fire escape, and it failed, would they not own that action of tampering.

I do know the public, in general, would prob agree that if someone chopped a bolt.... And a person was killed....expecting that bolt to be there...would think the chopper be held accountable.

Mtnfly wrote:I'm not a lawyer, but it brings up an interesting issue? What responsibility does a bolt chopper own? What if someone tampered with bolts so they would fail, and someone was hurt? Would they not be prosecuted? Take it out of the rock climbing world, if someone loosened all the bolts on a fire escape, and it failed, would they not own that action of tampering. I do know the public, in general, would prob agree that if someone chopped a bolt.... And a person was killed....expecting that bolt to be there...would think the chopper be held accountable.

That is a terrifying thought. If a bolt wasn't there and she wasn't confident, she should have backed off. Not saying that was the situation, but it is the climbers responsibility to get home at the end of the day, not whoever places bolts, or chops them for that matter.

I might have my pitches confused...
Larry, lets you and I, maybe in the next few weeks, go out there on a weekday morning and redo the obvious with glue ins. I have the technology. There is no reason for a trade route like Ancient Art to be made into a dangerous test peace.

Josh,

100% agree at end of day everyone is responsible for their own actions and lives. I also agree I am responsible for making sure no cars hitting me while crossing the street, but sometimes actions of others make a difference. Like getting hit by drunk driver in a crosswalk.

The Larry wrote: The boulder that you placed a 4 camalot on fell over two years ago making it a little more run out.

Did a #4 Cam topple it over? ha

Sam and Larry, Thanks for the community service!