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Start underclinging the crack with a boulder to your back, and your feet on the rail to the left of the crack. Work your way up and over the lip any which way you can. SCARY TOPOUT.
This is the huge boulder just below the sweet loaf formation that you walk past in the drainage during the aproach. The crack that smokes you climbs directly out the middle of this roof using the obvious crack.
Several pads, spotter.
Mar 22, 2009
If you're ref. to the massive boulder with the big splitter that goes thru a roof at its bottom (Cranium Capacity, 10b), then it certainly has been climbed before, and is in a guide. . . . I believe Bernard (Rock Climbing St. Vrain Canyons guide) says it goes at 5.10+, although it seemed a bit harder to me. There's a few short routes or high boulder problems on this rock.
Sorry Toddy. . . .
|By todd finley|
Apr 14, 2009
This is Colorado, it's always possible somebody already climbed it... although I did quite a bit of landscaping and built a landing. I'll get some pics to verify, because it wasn't V10 to me.
|By R. Wilson|
Dec 22, 2009
The description sounds like Cranium Capacity. The rating is certainly 10, but 5.10, not V10, putting the bouldering rating at about V0.