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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 43 mins ago
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Point Rank: # 1,041
Total Points: 583
Last Year: 165
Last 30 Days: 5
40 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2066 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 54 | Page Improvments | Comments 243 | Posts 1457 | Stars 174 | Ratings 131
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Lower Walls
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: I put a lot of mileage on these walls in the early '80s - as many as 20 to 30 laps per day - not including Alcove bouldering. A tucked-away gem in the middle of hectic, urban living.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs : The Hitcher (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Mark took me out to this route, not long after he put it up. I remember onsighting it and thinking that it was pretty easy, because of the crux being right off of the ground, and I don't remember the year. I think it was '94 or '95. If Mark or anyone else has any more info about the date, consensus grade, etc., let me know, and I'll amend the description.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : J Wall (aka L Face) : Ladder Line (5.11c)
By: KCP When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: This pitch was rated hard 5.10 when I lead it in the mid '80s. It has been ages, although 11c seems way off compared to 5.11 trad routes that I did back then on Cathedral and Whitehorse. Camber is rated 11b, and it's much harder, IMO.

Haven't been to the quarry since the mid '80s. I heard a rumor that a lot of the quarry has been filled in with dirt. Seems like that would change a lot of the place's character. Anyone have recent photos that they can post?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: KCP When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: I led this thing in '92, after toproping it a few times that season. Although it still felt spicey, leading it onsight would be a much more serious undertaking.

I tr'd it yesterday, after 21 yrs, and it felt harder moving past the first bolt. It has been a long time, but the horizontal crimp seems like it broke. I remember that move off of the left gaston being much easier.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Breakfast of Champions (5.11)
By: KCP When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a photo of Ben Moon, that I shot for Climbing Magazine, doing laps on Copperhead, about two weeks after he completely separated his shoulder snowboarding.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato...
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: I'm surprised that no one has posted Repo Man and that the only mention of it has an X safety rating. This was my first 5.12 lead. I accept it being down-rated to 11d, although unless the bolt that protects the crux is gone, this is not an X route. I got the nerve to lead it only after watching Jimmy Surette pitch off of the crux - coming close to, although not hitting the deck.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Work It On Out (5.12c/d V6)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Feet are important on this route. Would be a fun boulder problem if not for the jagged rocks under it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Awkward movement. Nice position.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: This picture just brought me back thirty years. I remember that routine well. That guy is probably belaying from the top of Recompense or The Prow. Great stuff.


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: KCP When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments:
Casey wrote:
I am a climber, not a mountain biker, but I think everyone should be able to enjoy the land equally.


Excellent attitude, Casey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Purple Wall : Pump It Until Purple (5.9)
By: KCP When: Dec 11, 2007

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Comments: The routes on this wall climb much better than they look. Fun jug-hauling on a slightly overhanging wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Dec 4, 2007

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Comments: Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt pretty solid at 10a. The bolting is good. No gear necessary.


Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: I'm on Qwest, too.


Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: I can't get it to work on IE, Firefox, Netscape, or Opera.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Rhodian Shores (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 20, 2007

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Comments: Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Simmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: Not as fun as Shimmer, IMO. After I pulled the roof, I found myself bushwacking to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bolt Cola (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: Good route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 11, 2007

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Comments: I agree with Dave. This route, compared to Chockstone, which I think has a harder and tricker crux move, is pretty straightforward. All the jams and locks are solid.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13)
By: KCP When: Nov 9, 2007

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Comments: Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animation aka Jaycene's Dan... (5.8)
By: KCP When: Nov 7, 2007

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Comments: This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.

I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.

A trick that I learned from setting gym ro... more >>


Location: Mark Cushman : Misc Pictures : Photo
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2007

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Comments: Yikes!!!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Mountains closed due to ext...
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2007

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Comments: A news report, released this morning, said that a young boy came forward and admitted to having started thes fires. See the story here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Free Speech (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Oct 28, 2007

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Comments: This route is 12a to onsight, IMO. I can see how someone getting it wired, and then redpointing it, might think it were easier, but is that really how to rate a route with such short business?

If you go up there, onsight, expect it to feel like easy 5.12.


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