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Member Since: Jul 7, 2005
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 1,042
Total Points: 600
Last Year: 177
Last 30 Days: 7
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has KCP been climbing?










Contributions


All 2094 | Routes 7 | Areas | Photos 56 | Page Improvements | Comments 249 | Posts 1462 | Stars 182 | Ratings 138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Roof Routes : Downpressor Man (5.12b)
By: KCP When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: One-trick pony with fun climbing to the crux. I like the traverse climbing to the anchors.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : The Contest (5.11d)
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Touch 'N' Go (5.8+)
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: I've done the first pitch into Bolting about thirty times, and only twice ever did the second pitch, although it's also pretty fun. Pitch one into Bolting just seems like the obvious and most natural line to me.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Apr 6, 2013

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Comments: Consensus is a great thing, Steve. I'm all for it, although being able to dislodge a pin with arm-force warrants it be gone, imo. Your attitude about not clipping a bad pin is the smart one. Better to have the attitude that you are soloing and cannot fall, rather to have any faith whatsoever in that the pin might catch you. Thanks to Joe for removing it. Glad it's gone.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Eldorado Canyon Bouldering : The Gill Boulder : South Face (V2+)
By: KCP When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Did it today as a warm-up. I agree with Phil's rating. V2 feels about right. There are several V3s in the canyon that are harder than it. No way it's V4.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13) : Photo
By: KCP When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: Looks completely grown over since the mid 80s.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia : The Bitch Slap (V7)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Except for a few sharp pockets, this is an excellent traverse problem. It climbs more like a route because of its length. I've done it several times the low way, and it felt like V6.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Biglandia : The Rotund (V7)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: The transition move onto the final sloper is a heartbreaker. Took me several tries to send this thing because I underestimated that drop-down move every time.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : H Wall (aka J Face) : Under the Big Top (5.10 PG13)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: This and Ladder Line, IMO, were the best lead climbs in the quarry, when I lead them in the mid '80s. UTBT had great protection and fun moves through and over the roof. I think we called it 10a back then.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Lower Walls
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: I put a lot of mileage on these walls in the early '80s - as many as 20 to 30 laps per day - not including Alcove bouldering. A tucked-away gem in the middle of hectic, urban living.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs : The Hitcher (5.12a/b)
By: KCP When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Mark took me out to this route, not long after he put it up. I remember onsighting it and thinking that it was pretty easy, because of the crux being right off of the ground, and I don't remember the year. I think it was '94 or '95. If Mark or anyone else has any more info about the date, consensus grade, etc., let me know, and I'll amend the description.


Location: MA : Quincy Quarries : J Wall (aka L Face) : Ladder Line (5.11c)
By: KCP When: Mar 17, 2013

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Comments: This pitch was rated hard 5.10 when I lead it in the mid '80s. It has been ages, although 11c seems way off compared to 5.11 trad routes that I did back then on Cathedral and Whitehorse. Camber is rated 11b, and it's much harder, IMO.

Haven't been to the quarry since the mid '80s. I heard a rumor that a lot of the quarry has been filled in with dirt. Seems like that would change a lot of the place's character. Anyone have recent photos that they can post?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: KCP When: Mar 16, 2013

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Comments: I led this thing in '92, after toproping it a few times that season. Although it still felt spicey, leading it onsight would be a much more serious undertaking.

I tr'd it yesterday, after 21 yrs, and it felt harder moving past the first bolt. It has been a long time, but the horizontal crimp seems like it broke. I remember that move off of the left gaston being much easier.


Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Breakfast of Champions (5.11)
By: KCP When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: This is a photo of Ben Moon, that I shot for Climbing Magazine, doing laps on Copperhead, about two weeks after he completely separated his shoulder snowboarding.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato...
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: I'm surprised that no one has posted Repo Man and that the only mention of it has an X safety rating. This was my first 5.12 lead. I accept it being down-rated to 11d, although unless the bolt that protects the crux is gone, this is not an X route. I got the nerve to lead it only after watching Jimmy Surette pitch off of the crux - coming close to, although not hitting the deck.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Awkward movement. Nice position.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 3, 2008

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Comments: This picture just brought me back thirty years. I remember that routine well. That guy is probably belaying from the top of Recompense or The Prow. Great stuff.


Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: KCP When: Mar 1, 2008

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Comments:
Casey wrote:
I am a climber, not a mountain biker, but I think everyone should be able to enjoy the land equally.


Excellent attitude, Casey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Purple Wall : Pump It Until Purple (5.9)
By: KCP When: Dec 11, 2007

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Comments: The routes on this wall climb much better than they look. Fun jug-hauling on a slightly overhanging wall.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Dec 4, 2007

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Comments: Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt pretty solid at 10a. The bolting is good. No gear necessary.


Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 24, 2007

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Comments: I'm on Qwest, too.


Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 22, 2007

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Comments: I can't get it to work on IE, Firefox, Netscape, or Opera.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Rhodian Shores (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 20, 2007

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Comments: Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Simmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007

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Comments: Not as fun as Shimmer, IMO. After I pulled the roof, I found myself bushwacking to the anchors.


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