Comments: Just did this route again, after a three-year climbing hiatus, and it took several tries after a month of fitness training. Then I did it two more times - once as a warm-up, and once at the end of the day. 12a feels more accurate than 5.11. It's definitely not 11b or c. I've climbed hundreds of routes in those ranges, all over the map, so I have a pretty good idea what they feel like. It would be interesting to know how many calling this route mid-5.11 actually onsighted it. I'm inclined to beli... more >>
Comments: I've always enjoyed this boulder problem on a rope. It has been my standard Coney Island warmup for years. There's not much to it, unless it's at your limit, in which case it will probably get your heart racing for a minute or so. It's worth doing at least once.
Comments: The route is R for sure. There is one good directional nut placement down low, although it would still be potentially a 30' ground-fall from the next moves getting to the bolt. They are maybe 10a moves but on small feet. Awesome movement.
Comments: Peter makes a good point about the tunnel, and it is an easy fix. There is no need to use tunnel 6. There is a well-groomed path that walks right over it. The consequences of taking the tunnel route, if you aren't very careful and have a low-profile pack, could be deadly, and it's illegal. Just don't do it. Getting your pack snagged on a passing train and being dragged like a rag doll won't do the climbing community any favors. I've been stuck in that tunnel twice with a train, and it's not fun.
Comments: It's been 19 years since I did this route, although I remember it being really high quality, in spite of its short length. It climbs much better than it looks. I'm 6', and I don't remember a problem clipping any of the bolts.
Comments: I've done the first pitch into Bolting about thirty times, and only twice ever did the second pitch, although it's also pretty fun. Pitch one into Bolting just seems like the obvious and most natural line to me.
Comments: Consensus is a great thing, Steve. I'm all for it, although being able to dislodge a pin with arm-force warrants it be gone, imo. Your attitude about not clipping a bad pin is the smart one. Better to have the attitude that you are soloing and cannot fall, rather to have any faith whatsoever in that the pin might catch you. Thanks to Joe for removing it. Glad it's gone.
Comments: This and Ladder Line, IMO, were the best lead climbs in the quarry, when I lead them in the mid '80s. UTBT had great protection and fun moves through and over the roof. I think we called it 10a back then.