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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pansee Sauvage (5.11b R)
By: KCP When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this thing in '92, after toproping it a few times that season. Although it still felt spicey, leading it onsight would be a much more serious undertaking.
I tr'd it yesterday, after 21 yrs, and it felt harder moving past the first bolt. It has been a long time, but the horizontal crimp seems like it broke. I remember that move off of the left gaston being much easier.
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Location: MA : Hammond Pond : Alcove : Breakfast of Champions (5.11)
By: KCP When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rick West and I did a pretty cool elimination problem on BoC, around 1982 or 1983. He did the first ascent, and I did the second. It is considerably harder than Hammond Eggs, although it has been so long ago that I really couldn't rate it accurately. Maybe V5. Wonder what ever happened to Rick.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Bouldering : Secret Garden : ... : Photo
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a photo of Ben Moon, that I shot for Climbing Magazine, doing laps on Copperhead, about two weeks after he completely separated his shoulder snowboarding.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato...
By: KCP When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm surprised that no one has posted Repo Man and that the only mention of it has an X safety rating. This was my first 5.12 lead. I accept it being down-rated to 11d, although unless the bolt that protects the crux is gone, this is not an X route. I got the nerve to lead it only after watching Jimmy Surrette pitch off of the crux - coming close to, although not hitting the deck.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Work It On Out (5.12c/d V5-6)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Feet are important on this route. Would be a fun boulder problem if not for the jagged rocks under it.
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Buttonrock : ... : New Horizon (5.12d)
By: KCP When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awkward movement. Nice position.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Photo
By: KCP When: Aug 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture just brought me back thirty years. I remember that routine well. That guy is probably belaying from the top of Recompense or The Prow. Great stuff.
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Location: CO : Proposed Mountain Bike Trai...
By: KCP When: Mar 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Casey wrote: I am a climber, not a mountain biker, but I think everyone should be able to enjoy the land equally.
Excellent attitude, Casey.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : A Tall Cool One (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Dec 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My fitness level is poor right now, but I would call this every bit of 11+. Probably not 12a, but definitely too hard for mid-range 5.11. It's worth a go for anyone aspiring to lead at this level, because of the closely spaced bolts.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Maybird Slide Area : Purple Wall : Pump It Until Purple (5.9)
By: KCP When: Dec 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The routes on this wall climb much better than they look. Fun jug-hauling on a slightly overhanging wall.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Lower Right Side : Splitting Hares (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Dec 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strenuous, awkward moves between the 3rd and 5th bolts. It felt a bit harder than 10a to me. Should definitely challenge most 5.10 climbers.
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Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm on Qwest, too.
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Location: CO : New Fixed Hardware Review f...
By: KCP When: Nov 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't get it to work on IE, Firefox, Netscape, or Opera.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Rhodian Shores (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Simmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not as fun as Shimmer, IMO. After I pulled the roof, I found myself bushwacking to the anchors.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Shimmer (5.9)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I liked this route better than Simmer. The line was more direct, and the moves through the roof were more interesting.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : Blob Rock : ... : Bolt Cola (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Nov 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: We all know how subjective grades can be, based on so many criteria. 10a is such a nebulous grade for me, because I have climbed considerably harder than that for almost thirty years. That said, I have the perfect metric for calling that grade. It's Bolting For Glory. Consensus, Eldo 10a, always feels the same to me, and so if a route feels that hard, I call it 10a. The crux of Bolt Cola feels just about the same to me. The only reason that I bother to give opinions on grades, on MP, is to give ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Hand Crack (aka White Light... (5.10b)
By: KCP When: Nov 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Dave. This route, compared to Chockstone, which I think has a harder and tricker crux move, is pretty straightforward. All the jams and locks are solid.
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Play Misty (5.11c PG13)
By: KCP When: Nov 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe someone should replace the missing pin with another pin.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animation aka Jaycene's Dan... (5.8)
By: KCP When: Nov 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route and Mosquito Burrito (Bowling Alley) have very similar position, although MB is more sustained, and the climbing is more intricate, for the grade.
I enjoyed this route, although I thought the bolt above the first ledge-break was placed too high. I am 6', and I had to stretch for it. A shorter climber would have to do a high-step move off the ledge, and a fall there would be a big one onto the slab below after you bounced off of the ledge.
A trick that I learned from setting gym ro... more >>
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Location: Mark Cushman : Misc Pictures : Photo
By: KCP When: Nov 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yikes!!!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Mountains closed due to ext...
By: KCP When: Oct 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A news report, released this morning, said that a young boy came forward and admitted to having started thes fires. See the story here.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Mr. Sandman (5.10a)
By: KCP When: Oct 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: To the AC who rated this route 5.8: Please post your name so that we can at least direct the laughter at a face.
The move left, before the anchors, is about the same difficulty as Bolting For Glory, which I've done too many times to remember - bigger handholds, but smaller feet and an awkward reach. For first-timers going up to this route, if you approach it thinking that it is 5.9, then expect it to be one of the stiffest 5.9 sport routes around. If, on the other hand, you expect it to be 10a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Whale's Tail : Free Speech (5.12a)
By: KCP When: Oct 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is 12a to onsight, IMO. I can see how someone getting it wired, and then redpointing it, might think it were easier, but is that really how to rate a route with such short business?
If you go up there, onsight, expect it to feel like easy 5.12.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Surprising Crag : ... : Chasing Sticks (5.9)
By: KCP When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very fun route, that was poorly bolted.
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